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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-27-2016, 07:39 PM   #4966
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Hey guys. Sorry if noob question but can someone list any differences (if any) between the B6 and B6D BESIDES laydown, diff and arms/towers. Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:14 PM   #4967
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Originally Posted by jonnymorrow View Post
Hey guys. Sorry if noob question but can someone list any differences (if any) between the B6 and B6D BESIDES laydown, diff and arms/towers. Thanks!
Spur gear is covered in the D ... the B6 gears are all exposed.
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:32 PM   #4968
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springs, shock fluid, caster block bushings
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Old 12-28-2016, 12:01 AM   #4969
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Originally Posted by jonnymorrow View Post
Hey guys. Sorry if noob question but can someone list any differences (if any) between the B6 and B6D BESIDES laydown, diff and arms/towers. Thanks!
Dude tbh they are the same car with a group of parts swapped. One can be built into the other and so on. If you race on med grip start with the D. If you race on super high like carpet then start with the 6, start there and then shape it into what you would like
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:24 AM   #4970
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anyone try alum shock towers? thoughts un these?
if you mean the VRP towers people seem to be liking them. I got some here to try myself.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:53 AM   #4971
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let me know how they work out, was waiting to see some feedback on the towers. was kinda reluctant to try them as carbon towers flex more
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:18 AM   #4972
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let me know how they work out, was waiting to see some feedback on the towers. was kinda reluctant to try them as carbon towers flex more
There is a variety of posts in here about them. In general seems people like them that have them. Thats how I based my decision to get them. Plus the 30% of that VRP had at black friday helped too
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:53 AM   #4973
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A few days ago I asked if anyone has figured out a way to use the LRP Super Shorty battery in this car. Well I have figured out the battery brace (Part# HBS116257) from a Hot Bodies D216 works very well. I have full range of all the positions just like the normal battery brace would. It also comes with the link and hole in the brace to remove the waterfall. Now the link wont work for the transmission part, you just have to use your own lower shock connector like normal.

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Old 12-28-2016, 11:55 AM   #4974
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
anyone try alum shock towers? thoughts un these?
I have not tried them but last week at the track there was one bent up pretty good on the pit table.
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Old 12-28-2016, 02:46 PM   #4975
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I have a question for everyone, I recently got a B6 laydown car and when I was building it there was a lot of hand fitting parts and things that dont line up right. For example, the rear hinge pin mounts, they are super tight and take a good amount of work to get them to install, you have to loosen both screws and go back and forth to tighten it down to the chassis. Another was the screws that hold down the transmission, you have to torque the transmission case to line up some of the last holes. I have heard from a few others that these cars are better quality(materials and included parts) but they also say that this is one of the worst cars from AE in terms of overall quality control. I had to do a lot of hand fitting like the above or having to file down parts to make them fit and not bind. What has everyone else's opinions been?
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Old 12-28-2016, 02:57 PM   #4976
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I have a question for everyone, I recently got a B6 laydown car and when I was building it there was a lot of hand fitting parts and things that dont line up right.
I thought the build was sweet. I did dremel polish all of my hinge pins and ball studs though. also used my hitachi to drive 95% of the screws.

here is a link to check out some build tips including polishing.

I have @ 30 packs on mine - broke the front bulkhead (thats a first) - nothing else.
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:28 PM   #4977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
I thought the build was sweet. I did dremel polish all of my hinge pins and ball studs though. also used my hitachi to drive 95% of the screws.

here is a link to check out some build tips including polishing.

I have @ 30 packs on mine - broke the front bulkhead (thats a first) - nothing else.
Good link but none of that was the problem. I normally do but I decided against it since I am kind of lazy this build and planned on having to do an overhaul soon since I am coming back from a long break from the hobby. The car has run well and been very tough so far. Just the building was kind of a pain. C-blocks had to be filled down a few thousands to allow the steering to not bind. The arms dont bind but it is really a good amount of force to get the rear mount to fit, just stuff like that.
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:36 PM   #4978
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Default Arm Mount Insert Question

I am confused by what the stock setup should be for the rear arm mount inserts. Is it the one with the hole directly in the middle (just a dot on the back as listed in the back page?) or is it using the 1 with them facing the outside as in step 1 of bag 9-10? Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:51 PM   #4979
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Center dot on both.
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:52 PM   #4980
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Who has the most worn out dog bones and what is the negative on performance?

My dog bones are now flat plates about 1mm thick.. its funny.. but the B6D seems fine?
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