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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-26-2016, 08:21 PM   #4936
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Stock setting would be center on both. As long as both C & D inserts are in the same orientation you have 3 degrees toe and 1 degree anti squat.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:36 PM   #4937
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There is no right or wrong. It depends on what settings you want on your car. That is why they make it adjustable so you can do whatever you want,.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:53 PM   #4938
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Just trying to get the box stock settings as a baseline.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:22 PM   #4939
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Need help ..... rear left tire breaks loose after landing a triple-double jump ..then punching to enter a left turn sweeper. Running a gear diff(4K) and rear shocks with 27.5 wt (Kyosho green springs) and front 30wt (grey springs) . It only happens on that spot all the time.
It won't happen if I coast the sweeper (after landing) a little bit and straighten up the front end then punch. I feel like I'm loosing a lot of time by doing this.

Suggestions?
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:38 PM   #4940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Need help ..... rear left tire breaks loose after landing a triple-double jump ..then punching to enter a left turn sweeper. Running a gear diff(4K) and rear shocks with 27.5 wt (Kyosho green springs) and front 30wt (grey springs) . It only happens on that spot all the time.
It won't happen if I coast the sweeper (after landing) a little bit and straighten up the front end then punch. I feel like I'm loosing a lot of time by doing this.

Suggestions?
Carpet track?
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Old 12-27-2016, 12:20 AM   #4941
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Carpet track?
medium to high traction clay
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:06 AM   #4942
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was at scvrc back in january after reedy race....great track....awesome traction.....cool layouts...had fun.
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:48 AM   #4943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
medium to high traction clay
Our track is also high traction and i found that 7K in the gear diff is just right you may want to give that a try.
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:05 AM   #4944
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That rear block that has the sway bar mounts, for those getting this in an alloy how are you liking it as far as it adding weight to the rear end?
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:57 AM   #4945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
I'm running the mip bi-metal pucks system and having an issue where the left rear dogbone is binding up on the t-nut. I've tried switching to the standard associated t-nut with the same results. Not sure where I'm going wrong here any advice?

Have messed with the Tnut and still having the same issue
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:15 AM   #4946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
Have messed with the Tnut and still having the same issue
Are you running narrow rear pivots or maybe narrow pivots in conjunction with the CV spacers?
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:21 AM   #4947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
Have messed with the Tnut and still having the same issue
What pills are you running in the c&d block? If running an inside pin location it could be moving the axle too far into the outdrive. You would have to move the pin back out.
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:29 AM   #4948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
What pills are you running in the c&d block? If running an inside pin location it could be moving the axle too far into the outdrive. You would have to move the pin back out.
That would be my issue then thank you. Actually decided to pull the washers out of the outdrives and this fixed the issue also
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:06 AM   #4949
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Originally Posted by MikeGassRacing View Post
That would be my issue then thank you. Actually decided to pull the washers out of the outdrives and this fixed the issue also
Washers out of the outdrives?
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:38 AM   #4950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Washers out of the outdrives?
I think it maybe this #91605 cva axle shims
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