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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-26-2016, 01:54 PM   #4921
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Not sure what the effect on steering is, but if you use gull wing arms you definitely need the tower for the gull wings.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:15 PM   #4922
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Ordered my b6d, front arm question, Im assuming it comes with the flat arms, Im currently running the gullwing set-up on my b5m & love it, I was told the gullwing mellows out the front end on my b5m is it the same for the b6d & do you also need a specific tower for the gullwing arms??
Yes you need the gull wing tower and I run the hard gull wing fronts. I like them the best. Gives better driver feedback/feel. I wouldn't use the word mellow but it definitely made it more consistent for me
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:29 PM   #4923
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The way they explained Ryans car was the gullwings arms smoothed steering out in turn
http://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotligh...Cavalieri_EOS/
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:53 PM   #4924
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Just build it with the flat arms and see if you like it. I like mine enough that I dont think it needed gullwing arms but my B5M have them. I plan on buying the gullwing set up just to try it.

This way when I am making a statement on the GW vs flat subject it wont be off something I read off the internet about some pro racers car
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:05 PM   #4925
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Just build it with the flat arms and see if you like it. I like mine enough that I dont think it needed gullwing arms but my B5M have them. I plan on buying the gullwing set up just to try it.

This way when I am making a statement on the GW vs flat subject it wont be off something I read off the internet about some pro racers car
Thats Exactly what i needed to hear was from someone else that runs the b5n with them & the b6d.. THANK YOU
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:27 PM   #4926
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My opinion on the gullwing vs. flat front arms:

http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2016...t-arms-vs.html
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:47 PM   #4927
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since the gull wing arms mellow the front, would that be something good for a newbie driver? Toying with just going gulls for all our cars here.
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:03 PM   #4928
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since the gull wing arms mellow the front, would that be something good for a newbie driver? Toying with just going gulls for all our cars here.
For me mellow is not the right word. It is still pretty aggressive but the big difference for me was the feel and it is super consistent. I think if your track has a decent amount of grip you will like the gull setup better
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:24 PM   #4929
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thanks. I run on carpet for now and I am thinking consistency would be great for sure for my daughter. I am using gullwing so I'll see about setting her up the same.
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:27 PM   #4930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daedalus View Post
Got my B6 kit a few days ago but haven't built it up yet. Is the body hitting the spur gear a big deal? Seems like JConcepts and a few others are even making aluminum cover/protector shields integrated into the motor plates?

Is it just on big jumps? Does it impact standup vs. laydown more one than the other?
I'm running the Schelle one.
3D printed fit and finish is top notch.

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Old 12-26-2016, 06:11 PM   #4931
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Originally Posted by Rubiconmike View Post
I'm running the Schelle one.
3D printed fit and finish is top notch.

The Schelle cover is so easy to take on or off. Two screws and it's off.
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Old 12-26-2016, 06:13 PM   #4932
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks. I run on carpet for now and I am thinking consistency would be great for sure for my daughter. I am using gullwing so I'll see about setting her up the same.
Another great aspect is as your coming out of a turn you can get on power earlier and stay on power.
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Old 12-26-2016, 06:14 PM   #4933
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I'm running the mip bi-metal pucks system and having an issue where the left rear dogbone is binding up on the t-nut. I've tried switching to the standard associated t-nut with the same results. Not sure where I'm going wrong here any advice?
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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   #4934
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T nut in backwards?
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:16 PM   #4935
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Guys can you confirm this is the correct stock setting for the toe?

C Block = with the dot in the center
D Black the .5 with the dot on the North axis, rotated 90 degree CW & CCW as shown?

I'm having some slight binding on the L rear arm - is this normal? Anything I can do to eliminate?
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