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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-25-2016, 09:32 AM   #4906
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Or you can just over tighten the s#$% out of the nuts and stop destroying the inserts.

I have seen one set destroyed and every screw hole on the car was stripped. The guy was notorious for overtightening everything.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:01 AM   #4907
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Or you can just over tighten the s#$% out of the nuts and stop destroying the inserts.

I have seen one set destroyed and every screw hole on the car was stripped. The guy was notorious for overtightening everything.
I pulled a ball stud through the hub on my car (zero stripped screws) after a few weekends. The idea was great on the B5 when there were 2 sets of inserts. When they incorporated 5 holes on the B6 series hubs is where the issue really came out. There is not enough material on the plastic side in my opinion.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:24 AM   #4908
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UOTE=Matt Trimmings;14778879]I pulled a ball stud through the hub on my car (zero stripped screws) after a few weekends. The idea was great on the B5 when there were 2 sets of inserts. When they incorporated 5 holes on the B6 series hubs is where the issue really came out. There is not enough material on the plastic side in my opinion.[/QUOTE]

^^ - - nailed it! I used loc-tite and was sure not to over-tighten mine AND I used a larger washer . . . still pulled the plastic piece through the top of the hub which split the plastic insert.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:59 AM   #4909
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I pulled a ball stud through the hub on my car (zero stripped screws) after a few weekends. The idea was great on the B5 when there were 2 sets of inserts. When they incorporated 5 holes on the B6 series hubs is where the issue really came out. There is not enough material on the plastic side in my opinion.
Im assuming you used the washer back there? I had a problem with my B5M very early on but that was before they included the washer. I then used a longer ball stud with a nut on the back so I didnt have to tighten down so much on the inserts.

I've never seen anyone have an issue with the rear hubs. I have to see how many of our racers are using the aluminum hubs off their B5s. I am not, I wanted light weight.
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:19 PM   #4910
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Im assuming you used the washer back there? I had a problem with my B5M very early on but that was before they included the washer. I then used a longer ball stud with a nut on the back so I didnt have to tighten down so much on the inserts.

I've never seen anyone have an issue with the rear hubs. I have to see how many of our racers are using the aluminum hubs off their B5s. I am not, I wanted light weight.
Long ball stud, washer on each side, nut. They didn't need to put all 5 holes into one tiny plastic piece. I've seen quite a few having similar issues with the stock hubs/inserts.
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:41 PM   #4911
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Long ball stud, washer on each side, nut. They didn't need to put all 5 holes into one tiny plastic piece. I've seen quite a few having similar issues with the stock hubs/inserts.
Interesting. I am gonna keep an eye out for it now.
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Old 12-25-2016, 08:34 PM   #4912
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some J Concepts parts installed .. no more annoying sound cause by the body hitting the spur gear.

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Old 12-25-2016, 09:19 PM   #4913
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How's that tie rod without the waterfall working? Any noticeable effect on traction or steering? Thx Phil
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some J Concepts parts installed .. no more annoying sound cause by the body hitting the spur gear.

[/url]
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Old 12-25-2016, 09:33 PM   #4914
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How's that tie rod without the waterfall working? Any noticeable effect on traction or steering? Thx Phil
ever since I run the buggy with it, never had problem with rear traction and punching out of the corners... even with old crappy practice tires. BTW...first time running Losi pinions...these things are quite , almost like the slot car pinions.

FYI...27T pinion is the lowest you can combine with a 69T spur in the B6....just throwing it out there.

Can't wait to start building my B6D dedicated for the HRH track.
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Old 12-25-2016, 09:50 PM   #4915
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Got my B6 kit a few days ago but haven't built it up yet. Is the body hitting the spur gear a big deal? Seems like JConcepts and a few others are even making aluminum cover/protector shields integrated into the motor plates?

Is it just on big jumps? Does it impact standup vs. laydown more one than the other?
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Old 12-25-2016, 11:49 PM   #4916
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Got my B6 kit a few days ago but haven't built it up yet. Is the body hitting the spur gear a big deal? Seems like JConcepts and a few others are even making aluminum cover/protector shields integrated into the motor plates?

Is it just on big jumps? Does it impact standup vs. laydown more one than the other?
Spur hitting your body robs you power and speed...plus the sound it makes is pretty annoying.
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Old 12-25-2016, 11:51 PM   #4917
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Originally Posted by daedalus View Post
Got my B6 kit a few days ago but haven't built it up yet. Is the body hitting the spur gear a big deal? Seems like JConcepts and a few others are even making aluminum cover/protector shields integrated into the motor plates?

Is it just on big jumps? Does it impact standup vs. laydown more one than the other?
The laydown is where the issues come mostly. The kit body just isnt shaped that great. Harder to get on and off. More annoying than anything.
The S2 fits way better and no spur gear rubbage.
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Old 12-25-2016, 11:57 PM   #4918
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#skeeterbuilds&graphics
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 12-26-2016, 12:00 AM   #4919
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#skeeterbuilds&graphics
[IMG][/IMG]
Very nice!
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Old 12-26-2016, 01:50 PM   #4920
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Ordered my b6d, front arm question, Im assuming it comes with the flat arms, Im currently running the gullwing set-up on my b5m & love it, I was told the gullwing mellows out the front end on my b5m is it the same for the b6d & do you also need a specific tower for the gullwing arms??
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