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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-23-2016, 05:43 AM   #4891
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Default Rear camber link mount upper hub inserts breaking

I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.

It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.

It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
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Old 12-23-2016, 06:04 AM   #4892
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I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.

It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.

It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
No you're not. The additional washers help but there just isn't enough material there to properly support everything. You can look up "breathless racing" (I believe) on facebook, they make carbon fiber inserts that should help. Either that or pick up some aluminum hubs.
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Old 12-23-2016, 06:32 AM   #4893
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Hey guys, need some bearing help. I installed some Avid Ceramic bearings in the B6, but I noticed the front wheeels didn't spin very much. Took it apart, added some Parma bearing oil to the bearings, and it seemed to be a little better. But the kit bearings seem to be a lot more free. The wheel spins longer with them. Avid tells me the bearings are packed with grease and ready to go, but I suspect I should be cleaning them and oiling them. What do y'all do for new bearings?
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Old 12-23-2016, 06:43 AM   #4894
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I believe the kit bearings are oiled not greased, that is why they will spin more freely than the greased ones you got from Avid.
Greased has more resistance but requires less maintenance, since it stays inside the bearing longer.
You can clean the grease out and oil them but you will have to take them out and re oil them more often.
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:18 AM   #4895
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Hey guys, need some bearing help. I installed some Avid Ceramic bearings in the B6, but I noticed the front wheeels didn't spin very much. Took it apart, added some Parma bearing oil to the bearings, and it seemed to be a little better. But the kit bearings seem to be a lot more free. The wheel spins longer with them. Avid tells me the bearings are packed with grease and ready to go, but I suspect I should be cleaning them and oiling them. What do y'all do for new bearings?
Just run them. The grease will not slow down your car. If you want really smooth spinning bearings, look at Schelle. They use a special thin grease that last longer than oil but spins more than Avid grease.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH2208
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:53 AM   #4896
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the 3.1 has 2 stage boost and braking options too
The V3 and the V3.1 from what I recall are also easier to connect the programmer card as on the V2.1 you need to pull the lead from the receiver if I recall correctly. V3 and V3.1 have a port you don't need to do that with. I think that was the main reason I picked up a regular V3 when it came up for sale cheap over the V2.1 I had here.
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Old 12-23-2016, 03:32 PM   #4897
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.

It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.

It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
Get an extra set of the blue inserts (eBay is cheap, complete set of rear hubs) and run on both sides. Sticks out a little but have not had an issue since. You will need a 12mm ballstud as well.

Last edited by timannnn6; 12-23-2016 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:56 AM   #4898
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Just run them. The grease will not slow down your car. If you want really smooth spinning bearings, look at Schelle. They use a special thin grease that last longer than oil but spins more than Avid grease.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH2208
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.

It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.

It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??

I switched to the older b5 inserts they have less holes and last longer. Also there's a company that makes carbon fiber inserts the company name is BBR carbon products. If u need a link let me know
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Last edited by eper; 12-24-2016 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:33 AM   #4899
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I switched to the older b5 inserts they have less holes and last longer. Also there's a company that makes carbon fiber inserts the company name is BBR carbon products. If u need a link let me know
link?
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Old 12-24-2016, 11:19 AM   #4900
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Default Showing off my B6D, T4.2 Bomber and Stock Slash.

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Old 12-24-2016, 11:32 AM   #4901
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link?
I googled BBR Product & found it but No inserts listed in their associated section......
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Old 12-24-2016, 01:31 PM   #4902
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Question regarding changes in axle height with the pills and/or hub spacers....

What does the change up or down do and when would one use each setting?
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:33 AM   #4903
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Solved the upper camber link insert issue (rear) .. too bad I didn't read the tread about using two aluminum inserts instead of a single plastic one. ahh well.

my fix? fill the void between the metal and plastic rear upper camber inserts with epoxy. That locked the inserts and washers in place! problem is i'll never adjust that again! i'll get the Schelle aluminum hubs next time.

Until then the easy fix for anyone else reading this is two aluminum inserts - skip that plastic one. if you don't change it, suddenly your camber will begin to float and you wont realize why the car isn't handling... until it finally fractures the plastic insert.
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Old 12-25-2016, 03:52 AM   #4904
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Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
Solved the upper camber link insert issue (rear) .. too bad I didn't read the tread about using two aluminum inserts instead of a single plastic one. ahh well.

my fix? fill the void between the metal and plastic rear upper camber inserts with epoxy. That locked the inserts and washers in place! problem is i'll never adjust that again! i'll get the Schelle aluminum hubs next time.

Until then the easy fix for anyone else reading this is two aluminum inserts - skip that plastic one. if you don't change it, suddenly your camber will begin to float and you wont realize why the car isn't handling... until it finally fractures the plastic insert.
I use an aluminum countersunk washer on the plastic insert side and never had a problem destroying that plastic insert.
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:02 AM   #4905
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My apologies guys I spoke to the guys at bbr and they never put that part into major production as most guys ran the aluminum hubs. I for one like the plastic hubs I feel they give a little more grip and at my tracks I need that grip. U could message them and ask for a set and they may have some laying around they will send u. Again my opologies. Here's the FB link https://www.facebook.com/BBRCarbonProducts/
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