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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-17-2016, 12:41 PM   #4816
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I actually have the B6 .... so I have all that stuff... what I want to know is there a bunch of parts that I have to buy to make my B6 run on dirt track with low to medium traction.
Ball diff, front arms and tower are basically it. And the stand up 3 or gear 4 tranny stuff if you don't want to run the lay down you have.
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Old 12-17-2016, 03:02 PM   #4817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
Measure it....
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
I always see turnbuckles in mm lentgh,From the picture that looks way longer then ny turnbuckle ive ever seen, maybe just go buy threaded rod frm local hobby shop or home depot & make your own..
EDIT, found this with quick google search for 90mm turnbuckle
https://superstitionhobbies.com/prod...KW9hoCkaDw_wcB

ebay..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lunsford-5x9...oAAOSwa-dWp69N
thanks guys... went straight to Hot Rod Hobbies and got the right turnbuckle.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Coke in a can View Post
any track with slicks you should run the laydown trans
It is a B6 and it's laydown....but I don't really see any difference running a laydown or stand up at my track. It's a small track so you can't really feel the difference.

Last edited by Phillip F; 12-17-2016 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 12-17-2016, 03:44 PM   #4818
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Happy to help
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:41 PM   #4819
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Old 12-17-2016, 06:02 PM   #4820
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I'm in the process of getting back into the sport. I've got a B6D coming and I'm pretty unsure of the ESC to get. I plan on running indoor and outdoor offroad (carpet and dirt). The indoor track is open on the motor, commonly people are running 10.5 to 13.5. I always raced stock brushed stuff back in the day, so picking a new esc and motor is tough. I was leaning towards a HobbyWing XR10 Stock, but not sure if thats the right choice or not. I need to get some wheel time in before getting a really quick motor. I was thinking of starting with a 17.5 and getting smooth and consistant before going hotter. I'd like to hear what others are using and running given some of my info. Thanks.
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Old 12-17-2016, 06:22 PM   #4821
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I love ,,my xerun v2.1 new for $75 (ebay)all i did was upgrade the firmware for the blinky mode class, but the new V3 version is nice I think you can find them for around $130, Im on a budget so v2.1 in both my vehicles
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:03 PM   #4822
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
I'm in the process of getting back into the sport. I've got a B6D coming and I'm pretty unsure of the ESC to get. I plan on running indoor and outdoor offroad (carpet and dirt). The indoor track is open on the motor, commonly people are running 10.5 to 13.5. I always raced stock brushed stuff back in the day, so picking a new esc and motor is tough. I was leaning towards a HobbyWing XR10 Stock, but not sure if thats the right choice or not. I need to get some wheel time in before getting a really quick motor. I was thinking of starting with a 17.5 and getting smooth and consistant before going hotter. I'd like to hear what others are using and running given some of my info. Thanks.
My suggestion is to get the hobbywing stock spec.v3.1 just in case after running 17.5 or superstock and you want to try mod...you can do so with this esc.
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:22 PM   #4823
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why get a stock spec when get more continuous amperage & more max burst on the Xerun V3 for $20 more?
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:43 PM   #4824
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
why get a stock spec when get more continuous amperage & more max burst on the Xerun V3 for $20 more?
I know people running the XR10 Stock Spec with a 7.5T mod motor and they say it's great; needs the fan though.

I personally run it fanless with a 17.5 in blinky class, and have found it to be really, really good.

One thing to keep in mind, if you're going to be running 17.5, is that weight might be more important than if you were running mod. I have a Sanwa RX-481 and the XR10 Stock Spec, Pucks, and no titanium anything, and I'm underweight without a chassis protector!
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:22 AM   #4825
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
I'm in the process of getting back into the sport. I've got a B6D coming and I'm pretty unsure of the ESC to get. I plan on running indoor and outdoor offroad (carpet and dirt). The indoor track is open on the motor, commonly people are running 10.5 to 13.5. I always raced stock brushed stuff back in the day, so picking a new esc and motor is tough. I was leaning towards a HobbyWing XR10 Stock, but not sure if thats the right choice or not. I need to get some wheel time in before getting a really quick motor. I was thinking of starting with a 17.5 and getting smooth and consistant before going hotter. I'd like to hear what others are using and running given some of my info. Thanks.
Even though I have a Reedy 410 in my car right now, for the footprint, adjustability and pretty much everything I can only say Tekin. I've had Tekins in my cars for years and will probably do it again.

If you want to get smooth with a 17.5 before other motors, the Green Eco power from Amain is a $60 motor with a lot of bang for the buck
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:28 AM   #4826
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Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I know people running the XR10 Stock Spec with a 7.5T mod motor and they say it's great; needs the fan though.
Would you be able to comment more on this? Reason I ask is I'm helping a friend get his new b6d built, and he ordered the new xr10 stock spec and a 10.5 motor. Reading the HW specs, that ESC is only good down to 10.5 in touring. A little worried for him. As a new driver, was thinking of turning his punch and EPA down to help, plus the fan. Your post gives me hope he might be ok 😀
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:16 AM   #4827
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
My suggestion is to get the hobbywing stock spec.v3.1 just in case after running 17.5 or superstock and you want to try mod...you can do so with this esc.
I called my local hobby shop and that is discontinued. They don't have much in stock. I'm also in Canada and trying to avoid ordering in from the US with brokerage charges and shipping charges for a single item gets really expensive. The only versions available are the new pro. The 3.1 versions are discontinued as well so they can't order one.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:51 AM   #4828
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
I called my local hobby shop and that is discontinued. They don't have much in stock. I'm also in Canada and trying to avoid ordering in from the US with brokerage charges and shipping charges for a single item gets really expensive. The only versions available are the new pro. The 3.1 versions are discontinued as well so they can't order one.
If you get it shipped usps it does help not getting dinged brokerage fees. I have never been charged when I have ordered from absolute hobbyz and shipped it usps even on kits.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:55 AM   #4829
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
I called my local hobby shop and that is discontinued. They don't have much in stock. I'm also in Canada and trying to avoid ordering in from the US with brokerage charges and shipping charges for a single item gets really expensive. The only versions available are the new pro. The 3.1 versions are discontinued as well so they can't order one.
Absolute doesn't carry any good esc tho just tekin.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:12 AM   #4830
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If you get it shipped usps it does help not getting dinged brokerage fees. I have never been charged when I have ordered from absolute hobbyz and shipped it usps even on kits.
Thats interesting. Last time I used UPS, they charged me $35 to fill out the import. I found a stock spec 3.1 on Amazon and picked that up to get me going.
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