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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-16-2016, 05:48 AM   #4786
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If you bought the standard b6 buy a ball diff, keep your gull arms and tower on, and buy aluminum front pivot and 25gr C block and sway bar kit front and rear. This is if you run on a decent amount of grip clay type track
Thanks. Good to know I dont have to replace all of the parts!
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:39 AM   #4787
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Another fan of the Schelle Triad setup. running white inside/red/red stack. great for 17.5
I have been running 3 white on both my B5m and B6D in 17.5. What difference would I see with 1 white and 2 red. I run at a small track, So you are on the breaks, then on the power a lot. Track has high grip.

Another questions...the Centric drive pads, are they useful or needed in 17.5.

I know, I could just run the lockout, but I just could not get used to the feel of no slipper on the car.
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Old 12-16-2016, 12:02 PM   #4788
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I have been running 3 white on both my B5m and B6D in 17.5. What difference would I see with 1 white and 2 red. I run at a small track, So you are on the breaks, then on the power a lot. Track has high grip.
The red pads have a little more aggressive bite - try 'em if you got 'em.
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Old 12-16-2016, 01:22 PM   #4789
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has anybody seen a setup sheet posted anywhere for spencer rivkin at the JConcepts Indoor National Series Finale
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Old 12-16-2016, 03:13 PM   #4790
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B6d carpet setup go.....
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Old 12-16-2016, 03:36 PM   #4791
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B6d carpet setup go.....
wonder if you could just use the B6 setup as a base with the laydown tranny, appropriate springs and oils, but leave the rest as is? (flat arms, etc)
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:07 PM   #4792
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Anyone using the Associated FT Wrench set? AE #1519. I'm just getting back into the sport and apparently my imperial tools are no longer needed, so I need a good quality set. If anyone can say one way or another would be appreciated. I apologize if this has been gone over, but I couldn't get it to come up.
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:09 PM   #4793
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
Anyone using the Associated FT Wrench set? AE #1519. I'm just getting back into the sport and apparently my imperial tools are no longer needed, so I need a good quality set. If anyone can say one way or another would be appreciated. I apologize if this has been gone over, but I couldn't get it to come up.
Invest in some MIP wrenches. Top notch and last forever.
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:26 PM   #4794
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Invest in some MIP wrenches. Top notch and last forever.
Jmuck69 - has it right , much better product!!!
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:29 PM   #4795
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Invest in some MIP wrenches. Top notch and last forever.
Thanks for the info. I had not seen these before. My previous ones were a set of drill blanks in Fantom handles, similar to the old Bolink Torkers set. Being that the tip is not easily replaceable, I assume these last a really long time. It looks like I may need to find a new place to keep them in my box. The handle looks fairly large. I don't see any dimensions on them. Do you have an approximation of the size?

Who do you recommend for nut drivers?
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:35 PM   #4796
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Is it cheaper to just buy a B6D as oppose to buying a bunch of parts for a B6 to make it a B6D?
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:42 PM   #4797
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Everyone seems to be turning the B6D into a B6 anyways... last to go will be the ball diff, then we can all quit asking which side the screw is supposed to be on...
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:53 PM   #4798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
Thanks for the info. I had not seen these before. My previous ones were a set of drill blanks in Fantom handles, similar to the old Bolink Torkers set. Being that the tip is not easily replaceable, I assume these last a really long time. It looks like I may need to find a new place to keep them in my box. The handle looks fairly large. I don't see any dimensions on them. Do you have an approximation of the size?

Who do you recommend for nut drivers?
The MIP wrenches used to be the old Thorpe wrenches with translucent orange handles. MIP is going to start making nut drivers soon but I use ProTek metal handle nut drivers.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-8226/p212282
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-8225/p212281

What's nice about these are you can loosen the set screw and slide the tip into the handle and shorten it. Did that on my 5.5mm.

This is good for wheel nuts
http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...wrench-SCH1060
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:37 PM   #4799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Invest in some MIP wrenches. Top notch and last forever.
I like the feel of the handles....
I hate those typical RC tools, especially knurled aluminium handles. They hurt your hands after a while. Not only the knurled surface, but the ergonomics.

Apart from RC, I do have other hobbies that involve hand tools, fabrication of woods and metals, so MIP handles feel like real tools and feel good and secure in your hands

I'm not sure if they last forever (yet) as I've only had them for 2 years, but I've worn hex heads more than the wear (if any) on the tips.

I must admit, I've broken my 1/16" tip, maybe due to dropping it several times. But I quickly replaced it without any doubts.

I do hope they do come with nut drivers soon
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:39 PM   #4800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
Thanks for the info. I had not seen these before. My previous ones were a set of drill blanks in Fantom handles, similar to the old Bolink Torkers set. Being that the tip is not easily replaceable, I assume these last a really long time. It looks like I may need to find a new place to keep them in my box. The handle looks fairly large. I don't see any dimensions on them. Do you have an approximation of the size?

Who do you recommend for nut drivers?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...nt2010/p413928
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