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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-06-2016, 06:01 AM   #4651
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took a closer look at my vrp stuff, looks like I am missing some parts from the CNC battery brace.

Came with the following:
- battery brace assembly
- turnbuckle
- turnbuckle ends with 1 "ball" insert on 1 end, none on the other
- 1 nut

Is it supposed to come with any screws, another ball insert that goes into the turnbuckle end, etc? If so, what are the sizes so I can get it together with what I have here?

Got a message and they sending out the missing parts. nice customer service. I have to say for being aluminum in comparison to the graphite, at least for towers, these feel pretty light.

We were initially going to only put 1 ball with the brace as you can use the other ball from your stock waterfall. But we quickly decided to include the extra ball. I believe a couple got shipped with only 1 ball. But we will ship the extra stuff to anyone who needs it. The balls are just shock end balls as well.
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:01 AM   #4652
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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
Cain, when did you order? what state are you in? I ordered yesterday (Sunday)
I ordered on black friday when it had the 30% off deal. darn near wish I ordered more now

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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
can you post some pics? I don't know if you already threw it on the car or not, but if you didn't, could you post some pics of the kit unattached as well as on?
Sure, i'll see about that whe it comes in but it basically will look like the pics they have on the site. Is there something specific you want to see? if so, let me know and I can focus on that.

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Originally Posted by "Smiley" View Post
We were initially going to only put 1 ball with the brace as you can use the other ball from your stock waterfall. But we quickly decided to include the extra ball. I believe a couple got shipped with only 1 ball. But we will ship the extra stuff to anyone who needs it. The balls are just shock end balls as well.
Cool. didn't know you could do that I may get going sooner than later if I can find some compatible stuff. For the screws, do you know the sizes offhand?
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:25 AM   #4653
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I ordered on black friday when it had the 30% off deal. darn near wish I ordered more now



Sure, i'll see about that whe it comes in but it basically will look like the pics they have on the site. Is there something specific you want to see? if so, let me know and I can focus on that.



Cool. didn't know you could do that I may get going sooner than later if I can find some compatible stuff. For the screws, do you know the sizes offhand?

The screws that hold the side braces on are 3x10 Button Head, and the screw that holds the turnbuckle to the battery brace is a 3x14 Countersunk.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:33 AM   #4654
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I did a bit of research and couldn't come up with a answer. When switching to B5M ball cups do you guys still use the curved ones that connect to the steering block?
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:46 AM   #4655
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I did a bit of research and couldn't come up with a answer. When switching to B5M ball cups do you guys still use the curved ones that connect to the steering block?
the b6 does not use the curved ones on the steering. b6 and b5 ballcups are the same now so it comes with the curved in the replacement depending on what car you are putting them on.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:47 AM   #4656
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I did a bit of research and couldn't come up with a answer. When switching to B5M ball cups do you guys still use the curved ones that connect to the steering block?
Pretty sure those are for converting a 5-series vehicle to the b6 cups only (which i did and was glad AE included them in the pack).
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:14 AM   #4657
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the b6 does not use the curved ones on the steering. b6 and b5 ballcups are the same now so it comes with the curved in the replacement depending on what car you are putting them on.
Thanks for the reply, I just heard that the B6 ball cups wear out fast and was thinking about going to the B5 ones as they are a direct fit and last longer. I have a B6D and all the ball cups are straight, the ones on AE website look curved now for the B6-part number 91722. Just wondering if its worth it.
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:54 AM   #4658
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Originally Posted by Bross281 View Post
Thanks for the reply, I just heard that the B6 ball cups wear out fast and was thinking about going to the B5 ones as they are a direct fit and last longer. I have a B6D and all the ball cups are straight, the ones on AE website look curved now for the B6-part number 91722. Just wondering if its worth it.
The b5 cups have much less slop in them. Few guys at our track have switched over.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:28 PM   #4659
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The b5 cups have much less slop in them. Few guys at our track have switched over.
I read awhile back the B5 cups were being replaced with the B6 part number. Looking online I see the B5 cups still in stock.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:20 PM   #4660
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Got my VRP Shock Towers yesterday...loooking awesome
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Old 12-07-2016, 05:30 AM   #4661
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Got my VRP Shock Towers yesterday...loooking awesome
+1 Also surprised how light they feel.
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Old 12-07-2016, 05:43 AM   #4662
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I read awhile back the B5 cups were being replaced with the B6 part number. Looking online I see the B5 cups still in stock.
If that's the case I'm going to hoard a bunch of the b5 cups
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:29 AM   #4663
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Pretty sure those are for converting a 5-series vehicle to the b6 cups only (which i did and was glad AE included them in the pack).
curved cups are for the b64
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:54 AM   #4664
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What's the purpose of running the losi 67mm axles
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Old 12-07-2016, 07:09 AM   #4665
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What's the purpose of running the losi 67mm axles
these are only used with the BMI hubs to my knowledge. keeps the bone inside the outdrive so they don't pop out. The BMI hub moves everything out a little bit.
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