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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-04-2016, 10:52 AM   #4606
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raved007, do you have a pic of the whole car I could see?
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:58 AM   #4607
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where did you get those braided battery wire covers? Those are BADASS!! does that Exotek battery brace work with the standup 3-gear or just the laydown?
The exotek battery brace works for stand up and laydown. Also braided wire bought in ebay 1/4 size
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Old 12-04-2016, 11:07 AM   #4608
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
yeah I got that part, what i am getting at is where are the standard towers actually better. So in short, is it a wash on surfaces that are smoother, smaller jumps, etc. Then as you go to what you described, the longer shocks are the ticket. So in short, if its a wash, they might as well just go long the whole time.

That's what I am wondering.
I haven't gone to B5 shocks, but the B6 shocks are lighter and lower CG.
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Old 12-04-2016, 11:13 AM   #4609
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I haven't gone to B5 shocks, but the B6 shocks are lighter and lower CG.
Tsair got yours payment but please PM your Shipping ADD.
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Old 12-04-2016, 12:32 PM   #4610
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when using the 31mm rear bodies/ and taller tower do you use the same shafts.
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Old 12-04-2016, 12:37 PM   #4611
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Exotek carbon fiber adjustable battery straps are out of stock and on backorder everywhere...I just copped the VRP aluminum battery strap w/ turnbuckle set up.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:03 PM   #4612
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when using the 31mm rear bodies/ and taller tower do you use the same shafts.
Yes
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:09 PM   #4613
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Your incorrect. I was on purple front and blue rear same as Ryan's eos setup. I've ran this same shock setup on a yz2 xb2 and now the b6. It's $$ but to each there own.
How am I incorrect you said you are running purple and blue I'm assuming you are on roll bars I'm assuming you we're on the fast flowing track as per the EOS I assume you had the best part of 120 drivers running for two days practice bringin the grip up.

If all these are correct I stand corrected and apologise if not I fear your a little too stiff

But each to there own
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:21 PM   #4614
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Originally Posted by stuey View Post
... I fear your a little too stiff ...
heh heh ...


More serious note, would you recommend going to say the next spring level softer if the surface is a bit more bumpy than what the setup was used on? thinking maybe next spring softer (already doing that on front) and say 50cst lighter.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:28 PM   #4615
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Ok. I run on dirty and clay. Should I get the carpet and buy a ball diff or go dirt and get the laydown. What's working best from racers opinion
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:33 PM   #4616
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Ok. I run on dirty and clay. Should I get the carpet and buy a ball diff or go dirt and get the laydown. What's working best from racers opinion
Dirt and lay down is the best way to go.
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:55 PM   #4617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
heh heh ...


More serious note, would you recommend going to say the next spring level softer if the surface is a bit more bumpy than what the setup was used on? thinking maybe next spring softer (already doing that on front) and say 50cst lighter.
Yeah defo the fasted that way across the bumps is keeping your wheels on the ground driving forward.
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:04 PM   #4618
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Vrp brace works with laydown and stand up transmissions.
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:24 PM   #4619
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Originally Posted by B44 View Post
when using the 31mm rear bodies/ and taller tower do you use the same shafts.
yes, they are on mine
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:41 PM   #4620
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Originally Posted by "Smiley" View Post
Vrp brace works with laydown and stand up transmissions.
If I keep the standup 3-gear, do I need to buy a longer turnbuckle? What is the size of the turnbuckle included in the kit? (I bought the one with it included)
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