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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-04-2016, 01:58 AM   #4591
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gonna make it a 17.5 only car...I wanna get the laydown gearbox too...
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Old 12-04-2016, 04:20 AM   #4592
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I recommend trying yatabe springs. Red front and green rear. Yatabe springs are so good on carpet.
I disagree with the yatabe springs you are probably running it way to stiff we run on very high grip on spikes and staggers on reds and white AE no roll bars they make the car inconsistent on high frequency bumps.

We run 37.5AE front
30AE rear
Kit pistons
B6
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Old 12-04-2016, 05:43 AM   #4593
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Originally Posted by stuey View Post
I disagree with the yatabe springs you are probably running it way to stiff we run on very high grip on spikes and staggers on reds and white AE no roll bars they make the car inconsistent on high frequency bumps.

We run 37.5AE front
30AE rear
Kit pistons
B6
Yatabe Reds are actually softer than than the AE reds. Its prob costing him steering. The Yatabe greens are quite a bit stiffer than the AE whites though.
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:45 AM   #4594
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Originally Posted by stuey View Post
I disagree with the yatabe springs you are probably running it way to stiff we run on very high grip on spikes and staggers on reds and white AE no roll bars they make the car inconsistent on high frequency bumps.

We run 37.5AE front
30AE rear
Kit pistons
B6
Your incorrect. I was on purple front and blue rear same as Ryan's eos setup. I've ran this same shock setup on a yz2 xb2 and now the b6. It's $$ but to each there own.
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Old 12-04-2016, 08:19 AM   #4595
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http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...ce_set_for_B6/

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Old 12-04-2016, 08:22 AM   #4596
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Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
I haven't sealed any shock towers so far. The first rear one that I had that came with the kit lasted around 6 weeks. The second (an x-factory one that was supposed to be stronger), about 2 weeks. Most recently, another AE one lasted less than one race day before coming apart.


I also just found out that I had a bent d-block....anybody else had this? (new on top, older bent one on bottom)

If you crashed hard enough to bend the D block it's no wonder the tower broke.

I have not sealed any of the towers on mine and I haven't had anything break or crack. I also have a couple Schumachers that I have been running for 2+ years and have not had any of the towers break/crack on them.
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Old 12-04-2016, 08:45 AM   #4597
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Guys i have a question when i installed the schelle +1 steering arm and i feel my steering twichy very hard to drive. So I installed back the stock steering much easier to drive and more steering those who interested schelle +1 steering don't waste your money. If you interested my schelle steering let me know i can sell $4 shipped
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:17 AM   #4598
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Guys i have a question when i installed the schelle +1 steering arm and i feel my steering twichy very hard to drive. So I installed back the stock steering much easier to drive and more steering those who interested schelle +1 steering don't waste your money. If you interested my schelle steering let me know i can sell $4 shipped
Why would you say it's a waste of money? If you want more steering in tight turns and 180 turns then it's perfect and works great. It's a tuning piece like many other options on the market. Keep it and next time you go to a track that has tight turns and 180 turns you'll be glad you have it.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:42 AM   #4599
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guys here really like the SMC lipos. Starting out I personally would just get what in general has people saying they are decent and don't go too much into the lipo voodoo charging at this time. I personally use Promatch lipos and I have some Nanotech lipos that came in with another vehicle that work well, actually quite well.

I got that VRP battery strap on the way.

by the way fellas, at what point does the standard tower work better than the long tower? I know when the long tower is better, but what about vice versa?

here is a vid of the main from the track yesterday:

https://www.facebook.com/RCUndergrou...7839902999384/
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Last edited by Cain; 12-04-2016 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:01 AM   #4600
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long tower with 31mm bodies...in B6D for generally bumpier, loose outdoor tracks with low to barely into medium traction, and huge jump tracks that are dual hatted for 1/8 scale or 4x4 SC
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:04 AM   #4601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinkz View Post
long tower with 31mm bodies...in B6D for generally bumpier, loose outdoor tracks with low to barely into medium traction, and huge jump tracks that are dual hatted for 1/8 scale or 4x4 SC
yeah I got that part, what i am getting at is where are the standard towers actually better. So in short, is it a wash on surfaces that are smoother, smaller jumps, etc. Then as you go to what you described, the longer shocks are the ticket. So in short, if its a wash, they might as well just go long the whole time.

That's what I am wondering.
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Last edited by Cain; 12-04-2016 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:31 AM   #4602
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will the new style of battery straps (like the Exotek, Scheme, and VRP) work with a 3-gear stand up or do they only work with the laydown transmissions? Would it be worth getting one if I am gonna keep my car 3-stand up for now?
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:43 AM   #4603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Why would you say it's a waste of money? If you want more steering in tight turns and 180 turns then it's perfect and works great. It's a tuning piece like many other options on the market. Keep it and next time you go to a track that has tight turns and 180 turns you'll be glad you have it.
Thanks but better to sell it my driving style not fitted i have same amount of steering with stock and not twitchy
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:48 AM   #4604
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My B6D with laydown transmission and exotek battery brace.
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:50 AM   #4605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
My B6D with laydown transmission and exotek battery brace.
where did you get those braided battery wire covers? Those are BADASS!! does that Exotek battery brace work with the standup 3-gear or just the laydown?
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