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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-02-2016, 09:07 AM   #4561
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Is everyone doing this mod? Just started my b6d build last night. Caught this on AussieBuilds blog site here

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Old 12-02-2016, 09:12 AM   #4562
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
I am using the Losi servo arm with a Savox with no fitment or rubbing with perfect geometry and the kit setup. Sounds like issues when using the AE Aluminum servo arm.
im using the exotek servo arm NOT AE
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:18 AM   #4563
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Let me save you a little headache. Leave the spacer behind the servo ears and just remove the 2mm spacer behind the ballstud. This is the proper way to fit a savox servo in the B6! You will have fitment problems if you don't have at least one spacer behind the ears. The servo screws without the spacer will hit the plastic posts before the holes for the hold down screws line up. Unless you want to source shorter screws.
This post was right on time as I just purchased a 1258TG...do you remove the 2mm aluminum ball stud washer just for the Savox line of servos, or should it be taken off for all servos to get the servo 2mm forward?
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:11 AM   #4564
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Is everyone doing this mod? Just started my b6d build last night. Caught this on AussieBuilds blog site here

I have heard this works great if the traction is really high since it takes away forward bite coming out of the turn on power.
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Old 12-02-2016, 01:37 PM   #4565
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Is everyone doing this mod? Just started my b6d build last night. Caught this on AussieBuilds blog site here

I did it. And it made a little difference. I think you can feel it more if you are running in dirt. I have a b6 and run on clay high bite track.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:28 PM   #4566
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No we are just adjusting the roll centre with the top links axels plus getting the shock correct not seen one top class driver needing to do this
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:31 PM   #4567
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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
This post was right on time as I just purchased a 1258TG...do you remove the 2mm aluminum ball stud washer just for the Savox line of servos, or should it be taken off for all servos to get the servo 2mm forward?
You need to evaluate the alignment for each different servo you use. I am also using a 1258tg servo.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:55 PM   #4568
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Hi guys i have a question got confused TOE-IN / ANTI-SQUAT pill in manual
BLOCK D mounts (Center DOT) 3 toe -IN and BLOCK C mount (CENTER DOT) 1 Anti-squat
And this is my PILL
BLOCK D mount CENTER DOT 3 and BLOCK C mount 0.5 CENTER-UP what is the total of ANTI-SQUAT?
Can anyone clarify this sorry i can't understand this thanks guys have a great weekends everyone.
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Old 12-03-2016, 01:26 AM   #4569
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Hi guys i have a question got confused TOE-IN / ANTI-SQUAT pill in manual
BLOCK D mounts (Center DOT) 3 toe -IN and BLOCK C mount (CENTER DOT) 1 Anti-squat
And this is my PILL
BLOCK D mount CENTER DOT 3 and BLOCK C mount 0.5 CENTER-UP what is the total of ANTI-SQUAT?
Can anyone clarify this sorry i can't understand this thanks guys have a great weekends everyone.
You have 3 toe with 1.5 squat

This should be helpful:

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10B6D/B6_B6D_Pill-Chart.pdf
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Old 12-03-2016, 03:46 AM   #4570
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I did it. And it made a little difference. I think you can feel it more if you are running in dirt. I have a b6 and run on clay high bite track.
The Kyosho front bulkhead comes with a square spaced that drops right in and is easier then 4 separate spacers. Also I have only been running the .5 and I like that but I haven't tried the 1mm yet. Just a heads up to make assembly easier
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Old 12-03-2016, 04:50 AM   #4571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
You have 3 toe with 1.5 squat

This should be helpful:

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...Pill-Chart.pdf
Thanks for your response
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Old 12-03-2016, 06:20 AM   #4572
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
The Kyosho front bulkhead comes with a square spaced that drops right in and is easier then 4 separate spacers. Also I have only been running the .5 and I like that but I haven't tried the 1mm yet. Just a heads up to make assembly easier
I'm sorry, could you clarify...the Kyosho spacer will drop right into the b6d front end? If so, that does seem a lot easier.....would anyone happen to have a P/N? Thanks for the info!!!!
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:36 AM   #4573
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Originally Posted by rccars4scott View Post
I'm sorry, could you clarify...the Kyosho spacer will drop right into the b6d front end? If so, that does seem a lot easier.....would anyone happen to have a P/N? Thanks for the info!!!!
I think this is it?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...youm502/p13102
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:01 AM   #4574
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Question, What does the Differnt size shock Cups do?? To me wouldnt using a thicker one be the same as turning the collar down more(tightening spring & raise ride height) ??
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:37 AM   #4575
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Thanks a bunch. Ordered.

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