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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-01-2016, 07:44 AM   #4531
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I have a box-stock B6, and just picked up a new B5m Factory Lite for cheap. I am going to be racing on Astro indoors, stock and mod. Which one would you use for stock and why? I have a gear diff for the b5m too.

Also, I have 2 vts slippers, a v2 slipper, and a schelle slipper. Which one would you use in stock and which in mod, and why? I'm back to AE for the first time since my RC10 Team Car, so I'm not up to date on the different options yet.

Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:48 AM   #4532
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Middle Hole, Its not breaking at a hole, its breaking at the thin area towards the shock tower
as far as "Upgrades" I run a brass bulkhead, Aluminum Steering, and Ti front axles, nothing out of the ordinary


I run indoors at ~70 degrees

Not sure what to tell you Scott. It's one of the following: impacts, weakest link creep (strengthened a weak link and something else breaks instead), material subjected to temps out of design range (at storage location too), or lastly defect material and we would be hearing more about this already unless it was a recent running change made.

So if anyone else has had any similar breakages please make us aware.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:26 AM   #4533
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Originally Posted by Mason View Post
Not sure what to tell you Scott. It's one of the following: impacts, weakest link creep (strengthened a weak link and something else breaks instead), material subjected to temps out of design range (at storage location too), or lastly defect material and we would be hearing more about this already unless it was a recent running change made.

So if anyone else has had any similar breakages please make us aware.
It's definitely a weird thing. The only things Ive broken on my B6 are 3 of the front Ballstud mounts, and 1 front arm, and the stock servo horn. I'm still on my original shock towers, although I have 2 spare sets in the box.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:05 AM   #4534
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Hello, yes I know this is an old question, and has been covered before I am sure, picking up a kit and wondering if I should go with the laydown version b6? or standup b6d?,
out door track hard pack med. bite, mostly running 17.5 stock class, some indoor carpet possible... most likely outdoor

also is the schelle eliminator? a good route to go?
It all depends. You're best bet is probably to pick up the B6D and get the Laydown conversion. Get a ball diff too and have the trannys ready to swap. When its warmer 75-80 plus I run the B6 on our outdoor bluegroove track. Once the temps drop it gets too inconsistent. Its kind of crazy how you are going from one extreme to the other and it might be hard to get the same car to work for both without a lot of changes. The B6 would definitely be the way to go for high grip carpet. I swear by a slipper eliminator. When traction is high I'll even use one with a 13.5.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:06 AM   #4535
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Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
I have a box-stock B6, and just picked up a new B5m Factory Lite for cheap. I am going to be racing on Astro indoors, stock and mod. Which one would you use for stock and why? I have a gear diff for the b5m too.

Also, I have 2 vts slippers, a v2 slipper, and a schelle slipper. Which one would you use in stock and which in mod, and why? I'm back to AE for the first time since my RC10 Team Car, so I'm not up to date on the different options yet.

Thanks!
Use the B6 on the Track with the highest grip. The B6 has a lot less rear droop than the B5M and the laydown tranny. That makes it much better at preventing traction-roll.

I actually prefer my heavily modded B5M Lite on outdoor turf that's damp or cold.
On ultra high grip carpet the B6 leaves it for dead because it's just easier to drive fast.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:25 AM   #4536
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are there any fitment or space issues on a B6D with its stock tranny if you put the shocks on the front of the a-arms versus the rear?

I know this has been clarified when to go to the longer shocks in the rear, however, is it basically a wash outside of the conditions to go to the longer shocks? In short, when are the standard shocks better than longer rear shocks, not just equal?
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Last edited by Cain; 12-01-2016 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:37 AM   #4537
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are there any fitment or space issues on a B6D with its stock tranny if you put the shocks on the front of the a-arms versus the rear?
I'm not sure it's possible to run shocks in front with the stand up gearbox
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:49 AM   #4538
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anyone else have any issues with the exotek servo arm rubbing a litte.

the steering link seems to be rub onto the top plate a little bit

it also has the 2MM washer installed should i remove that?

also when the servo arms turn i seem to get a click noise coming out of the servo its brand new savox 1258tg i hear it mainly when the servo arm is pushed to the far right or far left never when its just moves sightly left or right i hear no noise. im assuming that isn't normal ?
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:50 AM   #4539
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are there any fitment or space issues on a B6D with its stock tranny if you put the shocks on the front of the a-arms versus the rear?
The gear cover is in the way. It is possible but you have to do a little bit of dremeling to make it work. At that point I would just run laydown with shocks in the rear.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:21 AM   #4540
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So, I got out of racing for while. I received a B6 kit yesterday for my birthday. Now I'm "obligated" to start racing again.

Anyway, couple of questions because I don't want to endlessly search the threads. Are front wings still a thing on turf/clay? And, what are some "necessary" things to replace or look out for while building this kit?
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:41 AM   #4541
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Originally Posted by Stobert2012 View Post
So, I got out of racing for while. I received a B6 kit yesterday for my birthday. Now I'm "obligated" to start racing again.

Anyway, couple of questions because I don't want to endlessly search the threads. Are front wings still a thing on turf/clay? And, what are some "necessary" things to replace or look out for while building this kit?
Aluminum D mount - allows more adjustment possibilities with the inserts for the rear A-arms

I personally like the front wings, helps the car track straight on fast tracks and keeps it locked in. Some people disagree but to each their own.

If you're racing on medium to high-bite clay, laydown transmission all day long. really works. The kit is a dream to build but even more fun to race.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:27 PM   #4542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
are there any fitment or space issues on a B6D with its stock tranny if you put the shocks on the front of the a-arms versus the rear?

I know this has been clarified when to go to the longer shocks in the rear, however, is it basically a wash outside of the conditions to go to the longer shocks? In short, when are the standard shocks better than longer rear shocks, not just equal?
I have seen it done, I believe they ran two rear shock towers sandwhiched together or just the upper portion of a second shock tower and about a very long bolt for the upper shock mount and a bunch of spacers and I think you have to run no gear cover and possibly a modified top shaft. IMO not worth it but who knows it might actually be good. It was posted a while back ago in the B6 nation facebook page.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:52 PM   #4543
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here are some images of what i am talking about its not the top plate it hitting on my mistake
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Official Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-fullsizerender-6.jpg   Official Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-img_4952.jpg  
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:01 PM   #4544
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I snuck a couple pics of an interesting battery strap at last nights club race on a B6D. Aluminum strap, thin, with easy adjustments compared to stock and some of the other aftermarkets out there. I think this is something VRP in Houston is working on and we'll see on the market soon, but didn't get a chance to talk to the racer at last nights club race since I had to leave early. If I see him at the next race I'll question about it.
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Official Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-b6-batt-2.jpg   Official Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-b6-batt-side.jpg  
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Old 12-01-2016, 01:27 PM   #4545
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Originally Posted by biglove View Post
I snuck a couple pics of an interesting battery strap at last nights club race on a B6D. Aluminum strap, thin, with easy adjustments compared to stock and some of the other aftermarkets out there. I think this is something VRP in Houston is working on and we'll see on the market soon, but didn't get a chance to talk to the racer at last nights club race since I had to leave early. If I see him at the next race I'll question about it.

I got one of those on the way, its VRP. Black friday / cyber monday had like 30% of of stuff.
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