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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-29-2016, 04:46 PM   #4501
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Picked up a B6 for Christmas. It will be my first kit build in 25 years (Bought used previously). I did a bunch of reading and it sounds like people had mentioned a few errors in the manuals (Screw sizes, mounting positions, etc). Does anyone know if these have been corrected? Maybe the online manual? Just trying to get everything set beforehand.
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:04 PM   #4502
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Online manual is correct. Manual that came in kits had some misprints. Nothing major. Car is very good too!
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:05 PM   #4503
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Help! Having issues with the backend being loose and snapping around when applying power.

Started with default b6d kit setup which was really loose. Moved to Ray Munday setup and that was better,but still having bad backend snapping around. The three 180 corners are killing me because I spin out coming out of the corners.

B6d 3 gear stand up. 12g c block. Tight diff. C and D pills set like Munday. Car total weight 1560g

Indoor clay medium grip. Running dirt webs like everyone at the track.
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:25 PM   #4504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trickyii View Post
Help! Having issues with the backend being loose and snapping around when applying power.

Started with default b6d kit setup which was really loose. Moved to Ray Munday setup and that was better,but still having bad backend snapping around. The three 180 corners are killing me because I spin out coming out of the corners.

B6d 3 gear stand up. 12g c block. Tight diff. C and D pills set like Munday. Car total weight 1560g

Indoor clay medium grip. Running dirt webs like everyone at the track.
I had a similar issue. I changed my rear toe to 3.5 with 1 antisquat with the pivot point moved to the most inside position on the c and d mounts, but what helps the most is turning down my throttle curve on my radio so that snap and torque is reduced and smoothed out to hold straight lines when going full throttle out of a tight turn.
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:30 PM   #4505
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It's most likely your tires. While you may be running the same tires there's a lot of tire prep that goes in to indoor racing. Try cutting the flutes on the inserts and look in to how you're saucing your tires. Tusing in some expo on the throttle might help and if you're running 17.5 with a lockout run the slipper. Any weight saved isn't doing you a year good if you're spinning out.......
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:36 PM   #4506
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Hey can we do a show us you're wiring for the B6's in here? I'm looking for some ideas on keeping it clean.
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:48 PM   #4507
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I shortened all the wires including the transponder, esc, servo etc.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:15 PM   #4508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finalist View Post
I shortened all the wires including the transponder, esc, servo etc.
You're transponder position is fresh. Not seen that before.
I shortend all my wires on a B44 build years ago. There was no turning back on that one.
I may do it for this one as well
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:27 AM   #4509
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is anyone else breaking the front ballstud mounts regularly? Before someone says "Dont crash and you wont break them" these aren't breaking from crashes. On my local carpet track there is a Single jump with a flat landing, directly to a 180, and the combination of landing and the pull from the camber link while immediately changing direction for the 180 is breaking the front ballstud mount right at the thinner area near the shock tower. I did it twice on saturday, and once a couple weeks ago, all at teh same spot on the track. I hear exotek will be making an aluminum option soon, similar to the one that comes stock on the YZ-2
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:39 AM   #4510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
is anyone else breaking the front ballstud mounts regularly? Before someone says "Dont crash and you wont break them" these aren't breaking from crashes. On my local carpet track there is a Single jump with a flat landing, directly to a 180, and the combination of landing and the pull from the camber link while immediately changing direction for the 180 is breaking the front ballstud mount right at the thinner area near the shock tower. I did it twice on saturday, and once a couple weeks ago, all at teh same spot on the track. I hear exotek will be making an aluminum option soon, similar to the one that comes stock on the YZ-2
Does the racing line have you coming into the jump at an angle?
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:20 AM   #4511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
Does the racing line have you coming into the jump at an angle?
No Sir, the line is square with the jump, but as soon as you land, there's a hard left 180, the the direction change is so quick you'll traction roll if you haven't cutoff the outside row of pins on your rear tires
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:41 AM   #4512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
No Sir, the line is square with the jump, but as soon as you land, there's a hard left 180, the the direction change is so quick you'll traction roll if you haven't cutoff the outside row of pins on your rear tires
That sounds like something is interfering with the throw of the ball joint, preventing free throw at the extremes of travel. Do you notice any other drivers popping ball joints off, if not breaking the same part?

I'd pull off the shocks & wheels and investigate what limits the throws.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:59 AM   #4513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
That sounds like something is interfering with the throw of the ball joint, preventing free throw at the extremes of travel. Do you notice any other drivers popping ball joints off, if not breaking the same part?

I'd pull off the shocks & wheels and investigate what limits the throws.
I tried that too. Everything is smooth. I'm the only guy with running a B6 at the track right now, so I have no one to compare it to. I've also ripped out the rear inner camber link stud on my old B5m in the same place. The high amount of traction just puts a lot of stress on the camber links in that particular section
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:12 AM   #4514
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I'm wondering if those ball stud/cups are running out of travel before the rest of the system does. It used to be that if this happened, it manifested by popping the ball cup off. Cups & ball studs are so strong these days that the failure point could've moved?
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:46 AM   #4515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finalist View Post
I shortened all the wires including the transponder, esc, servo etc.
Schelle b5 hubs? I have a Kit coming this weekend and am curious if the Schelle 5 series hubs i have will work.

looks pretty dialed!
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