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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-28-2016, 12:58 AM   #4471
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If you're traction rolling, try limiting your travel and/or lowing your ride height. If I'm reading it correctly, your car is rolling too much and causing it to flip in the sweeper. You could also try stiffer springs and shortening your camber links, but then you start getting in to other handling characteristics. I would try the limiters and lowering your ride height first though.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:35 AM   #4472
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Try ride at 19mm. We use that height a lot on one of super high bite clay tracks and you can drive the car hard through sweepers without flipping. Could also be how you enter the sweeper causing the traction rolling.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:06 AM   #4473
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Default Ackerman setup

Hi mates
What would be the difference between adding shims to the ackerman bar
And changing the steering arms by a type 1

As I understand the first one will give a better steering response
The second one a tighter steering radius wich can provide more front grip at low speed
Did I'm right?
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:49 AM   #4474
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Thanks guys for your input I will try to lower my ride height
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:12 AM   #4475
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plus one allows the inside wheel turn farther
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:55 AM   #4476
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Any additional parts suggested to purchase along with the b6d kit and laydown for a 17.5 car? C/D blocks, etc...

or good to go out of the box + laydown.

thanks.
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:59 AM   #4477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Any additional parts suggested to purchase along with the b6d kit and laydown for a 17.5 car? C/D blocks, etc...

or good to go out of the box + laydown.

thanks.
Buy the aluminum D block for additional tuning, maybe the brass C blocks. The rest is just bling and up to you.
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:13 AM   #4478
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Buy the aluminum D block for additional tuning, maybe the brass C blocks. The rest is just bling and up to you.
perfect. thanks Matt
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:17 AM   #4479
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Just a public service announcement. The AE type 1 steering blocks and Schelle type 1 steering blocks are slightly different in geometry.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:24 PM   #4480
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Just a public service announcement. The AE type 1 steering blocks and Schelle type 1 steering blocks are slightly different in geometry.
What is the difference and which is better

thanks
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:06 PM   #4481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
Just a public service announcement. The AE type 1 steering blocks and Schelle type 1 steering blocks are slightly different in geometry.
pic?
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:26 PM   #4482
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I have the associated type 1. For me the steering felt more aggressive on corner entry but more even throughout the turn. Liked it better and felt more consistent
Anyone opine on the schelle xbrace and turnbuckle?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
Just a public service announcement. The AE type 1 steering blocks and Schelle type 1 steering blocks are slightly different in geometry.

Last edited by JAE; 11-28-2016 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:54 PM   #4483
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on a outdoor low to med track, the +1 AE blocks added sharp turn in, but for me car seemed twitchy. a AE junior driver asked if he could try them in mod, his car looks more steering reactive, he liked the change / effect. i would like it try a +.5 option block/plate if there is one out there...maybe schelle ones fall in that range?
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:26 PM   #4484
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VRP has about 30%discount going on right now! If you are looking for some of their AE stuff, nows a great time.
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:40 PM   #4485
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If I get this right 91548 Alum. rear hubs from my sc5m should fit to my B6D, correct? (Worth switching?)

These the right ones for my B6D: ??
VRP B6 7075 CNC Rear Shock Tower (Black) - Option Tower 1
VRP B6 7075 CNC Front 'Option' Shock Tower (Black) - Flat Arms
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