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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-24-2016, 10:26 PM   #4441
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I just swapped in the 4 gear standup for racing a wet dirt track that isn't much different than how they run Hot Rod. I used Ray Munday's dirt set up but I didn't add in quite as much weight as he did. I run stock and he runs a 7.5. Anyway, its decent. I'd have to think that the 4 gear produces a little more grip.
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:43 PM   #4442
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I have been playing around with the full RC Crew Chief software, and guess what? it has the B6D already programmed in! same with B6 I believe.. what I found out was the stock associated setup for b6d (I replicated it exactly) will tend toward understeer in the neutral power full turn case.

pretty cool stuff... in order to get the weight balance right for a neutral car with b6d setup you need to raise the rear roll center and crank the camber gain. on top of that, much stiffer rear springs (grey vs. stock green) and softer front (black vs. white) that gets you to about 5% understeer..

anyone else mess with RC Crew Chief? seems like a vast resource to see what is really happening to our B6 cars!
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:51 PM   #4443
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I just swapped in the 4 gear standup for racing a wet dirt track that isn't much different than how they run Hot Rod. I used Ray Munday's dirt set up but I didn't add in quite as much weight as he did. I run stock and he runs a 7.5. Anyway, its decent. I'd have to think that the 4 gear produces a little more grip.
I know one of the fast guys a HRH put weights in his buggy and was at 1750 g. He runs a Reedy 17.5T.
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Old 11-25-2016, 02:09 PM   #4444
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I have been playing around with the full RC Crew Chief software, and guess what? it has the B6D already programmed in! same with B6 I believe.. what I found out was the stock associated setup for b6d (I replicated it exactly) will tend toward understeer in the neutral power full turn case.

pretty cool stuff... in order to get the weight balance right for a neutral car with b6d setup you need to raise the rear roll center and crank the camber gain. on top of that, much stiffer rear springs (grey vs. stock green) and softer front (black vs. white) that gets you to about 5% understeer..

anyone else mess with RC Crew Chief? seems like a vast resource to see what is really happening to our B6 cars!
would love to see this too...will have to download the free version and see what it does.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:47 PM   #4445
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new black friday B6D owner...any servo suggestions?
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Old 11-25-2016, 08:23 PM   #4446
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20% off the team associated site.
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:20 PM   #4447
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Amain: protek 160t. Already 15 percent off. Additional 20 percent off type in savox20

Won't get better specs for $78

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new black friday B6D owner...any servo suggestions?
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:51 PM   #4448
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is there a parts list of what is needed to run a B6 on clay dirt?

was expecting to run the B6 turf but will only be running it on clay.
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:35 PM   #4449
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is there a parts list of what is needed to run a B6 on clay dirt?

was expecting to run the B6 turf but will only be running it on clay.
Ball diff, tall rear tower with 31mm rear shock bodies. That's pretty much it for things you need everything else is optional.
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:57 PM   #4450
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Ball diff, tall rear tower with 31mm rear shock bodies. That's pretty much it for things you need everything else is optional.
That's funny, I dont have the 31mm shock bodies/tall tower and my car works just fine on the clay.

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Originally Posted by ibalderas View Post
is there a parts list of what is needed to run a B6 on clay dirt?

was expecting to run the B6 turf but will only be running it on clay.
You dont need anything but to assemble the car, install electronics and tires and a controller. Everything else is subjective.

We run med-high grip clay and there is probably an equal amount of people running B6s vs B6Ds. Some guys are running Ds that have done laydowns with gullwing front ends. Build the car, run it and let it tell you what it "needs"
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:14 AM   #4451
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That's funny, I dont have the 31mm shock bodies/tall tower and my car works just fine on the clay.
I didn't think I needed them either until I installed them, it transforms the way the car jumps and lands and gives you much more confidence landing knowing the car is going to soak it up. I'm sure your car "works just fine" but it would Benafit from the extra volume in the shock body.

As far as the gear diff goes I wouldn't run it unless your running super high bite clay, a ball diff will give you more traction and rotate more and is much easier to adjust.
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:45 AM   #4452
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I didn't think I needed them either until I installed them, it transforms the way the car jumps and lands and gives you much more confidence landing knowing the car is going to soak it up. I'm sure your car "works just fine" but it would Benafit from the extra volume in the shock body.

As far as the gear diff goes I wouldn't run it unless your running super high bite clay, a ball diff will give you more traction and rotate more and is much easier to adjust.
Oh so you have seen my car landing jumps? Did it look like it needed the extra oil volume? Or can you tell that my car will benefit from stuff over the internet? Because that would be awesome if you can tell what my car needs from another state.

Just stop telling people they need stuff when in fact they dont need it. You dont know anything about the track he is running on, the way the jumps lay out, how good or bad the traction is, how he drives.........none of it. Without that information you simply can not tell him what his car does or does not need. I can tell you this. He does need a radio, receiver, servo, motor, ESC and battery. Oh and wheels and tires too, they do not come with the kit. Anything else is not NEEDED.
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:55 AM   #4453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibalderas View Post
is there a parts list of what is needed to run a B6 on clay dirt?

was expecting to run the B6 turf but will only be running it on clay.
While other people bicker, I'll tell you that you don't NEED anything in particular. Some suggestions would be to get the ball diff because it can yield more traction and it's very common on clay. If you have the B6 kit with the gullwing front arms, the flat arms and tower will give you more steering.

The thing to consider is that many things are optional. I have seen great handling cars on clay with gear diffs, gullwing arms, etc. The majority of people though, the general consensus is ball diffs and flat arms for clay. The laydown transmission is generally run on clay. I would suggest actually going to your track before driving on it and picking the brain of local fast guys and getting real advice from people who are running on the surface you'll be running on.
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Old 11-26-2016, 04:01 AM   #4454
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Amain: protek 160t. Already 15 percent off. Additional 20 percent off type in savox20

Won't get better specs for $78
Were did you get that coupon code? I couldn't find it in any of my emails
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:30 AM   #4455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
While other people bicker, I'll tell you that you don't NEED anything in particular. Some suggestions would be to get the ball diff because it can yield more traction and it's very common on clay. If you have the B6 kit with the gullwing front arms, the flat arms and tower will give you more steering.

The thing to consider is that many things are optional. I have seen great handling cars on clay with gear diffs, gullwing arms, etc. The majority of people though, the general consensus is ball diffs and flat arms for clay. The laydown transmission is generally run on clay. I would suggest actually going to your track before driving on it and picking the brain of local fast guys and getting real advice from people who are running on the surface you'll be running on.

Thank you guys all for your input it really does help. I got a B6 and not the B6d now I wish I got a B6d. I'll be running it at OCRC mainly. I know people are running both ball diff and gear diff I guess I'll run both and decided what one works best for me. And I know I don't NEED anything just been hearing a lot of hoopla about getting a B6d and getting a lay down for it that works best for clay. But doesn't a B6 already have a lay down? So in theory all I need is flat arms different back shocks. And then just trial and error from there? Already got Green and Grey shocks that was recommended for this specific track.
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