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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-11-2016, 05:28 PM   #4306
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
racing on carpet I assume? just get the AE +1mm spacers
yup running on carpet. +1mm spacers?

Exotek wrote me back and they are looking into the gear diff fitment as well.

Excited to give the vehicle a whirl, last AE I had was from the B4/T4 lineup (outside of the black sheep SC10 4x4) and they sure have come a long way.
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Old 11-11-2016, 06:17 PM   #4307
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I linked that part number above
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:48 AM   #4308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I measured mine with a Savox 1251 Shorty Servo, at 123-125mm. Sorry best I could do. its tough to get my calipers in there
Thanks so much, You've been of great help.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:40 PM   #4309
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ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.

Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
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Old 11-12-2016, 10:49 PM   #4310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.

Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
Try using a shorter rear camber link by going to the center hole 0n the rear inside ball stud. Try that with 2mm of ballstud washers.
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Old 11-13-2016, 12:18 AM   #4311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.

Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
Longer wheelbase
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Old 11-13-2016, 02:50 AM   #4312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
ran my B6 using the stock B6 setting other than the longer rear tower.

Worked really well the only thing I noticed that on a turn that was basically a 180, at some point it felt like the rear end would "stick" then unstick. it was towards the end of the rotation. I tried freeing the rear end up by raising the rear ball stud position on the bulkhead 1mm and then it was too free. Curious if something better to change here. Other than that car was very good.
By adding shims under the ballstud, you are lowering the roll centre which would add more grip, I would try lowering the ballstud by removing shims. 5mm at a time.

You could also try raising the roll centre at the c and d blocks, do this by raising the pin height. This is considered a larger change.

Adjust wheel base at the hubs, by moving them back.

Honestly if the buggy is good everywhere else on the track and you are looking to improve it for one corner I would leave it as it may have an adverse effect elsewhere on the track.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:46 AM   #4313
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Thanks everyone for the info. I based my change on this from the Xray offroad book:

REAR ROLL CENTER CHARACTERISTICS
Higher
• Increases on-power traction
• Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry
• Use under low-traction conditions
Lower
• Decreases rear traction into corner
• Increases steering into corner
• Use to avoid traction rolling mid-corner and corner exit

One thing I noticed is that a lot of the other cars at the track had swaybars mounted up but I don't see alot of setups using that right now. Curious if there is a recommended setup out there with sway bars right now as I was thinking a rear sway bar could have helped.
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Last edited by Cain; 11-13-2016 at 04:57 AM.
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Old 11-13-2016, 09:09 AM   #4314
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On my b6 I ended up with no shims under rear ballstud, long wheelbase, inside hole on rear camber link. Thinking about going to 1.6 piston 30 weight in rear shocks. If you shocks are not mounted on the front of the arm then change it. Moves the weight forward which is what is needed when traction is very high.
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Old 11-13-2016, 11:39 AM   #4315
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setup was the stock setup for the b6 other than the long rear shock tower.

So am I misunderstanding the roll center settings I posted?
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:01 PM   #4316
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Hey gents,
Are the titanium axles worth getting? Team Associated front, Protek rear. I have the MIP pucks for gear diff on order, and was wondering if lighter axles would help or hurt the car. It will only see life on carpet so I'm not worried about needing weight for traction.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:18 PM   #4317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
setup was the stock setup for the b6 other than the long rear shock tower.

So am I misunderstanding the roll center settings I posted?
Higher traction conditions you would raise the roll centre by removing shims from underneath the ball stud.

Lower traction conditions you would lower the roll centre by adding shims underneath the ball stud.

You could also try leaving the ball stud height alone and lengthening the camber link, and be sure you drive it after each step that way you "feel" the difference.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:36 PM   #4318
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So. when I first got my B6D I started tuning it according to what I knew from my B5M. Every change I made to the car made it worse and worse. That is when another guy and myself came to the realization that the car gained + camber with suspension travel.

If you tune this car like a B5M, your outside tire actually goes way positive with chassis roll. Having never raced (off road) on turf or carpet I would imagine this may be actually beneficial to prevent traction rolling?

I went totally opposite of everything I learned and set up the rear of the car to gain - camber when the suspension was compressed. I will say, I am EXTREMELY happy with the way this car handles right now.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:49 PM   #4319
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Anyone running yatabe springs? If so what color? Front and rear?
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Old 11-13-2016, 06:26 PM   #4320
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Anyone tried the JConcept Aluminum steering bellcrank and steering rack? I broke the stock plastic steering bellcrank today. Was wondering which steering upgrade should I get, AE or JC? The JC ones look better to me.
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