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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-09-2016, 10:35 AM   #4276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
While the B5 cups have "less" slop, the slop in the b6 cups is very minimal. My car has more than 3 hours of use and has almost no slop.
You must perform less unintended aerial acrobatics than I do. Some of mine are truly a sight to see.
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:19 AM   #4277
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Is anyone having issues bending the rear aluminum ball stud mount? I have managed to twist three so far, at $15 dollars a pop this is getting pretty old. Most of the time the car will start to act real erratic and I bend it back but after a few times doing this it is too twisted to save.

No major crashes just normal bumps and bangs during racing or practice
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:11 PM   #4278
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I've not personally bent one, but others have reported the issue. Get the Exotek one next time.

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Old 11-09-2016, 01:21 PM   #4279
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I've not personally bent one, but others have reported the issue. Get the Exotek one next time.

I will be putting this on my list.
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:34 PM   #4280
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New from Avid.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:03 PM   #4281
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anyone know which TLR aluminum dogbones will work on the B6D? i saw a post awhile back somewhere, can't find it

also saw a photo of a battery brace for B6D that where you remove waterfall and run a link from gearbox to top of battery plate. anyone know who makes it for sale? maybe just a one off custom?
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Old 11-09-2016, 04:22 PM   #4282
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Originally Posted by CCristo View Post
I've not personally bent one, but others have reported the issue. Get the Exotek one next time.

Nice they finally released it. Never bent one but I like that the rear end would all stay in place when you go to pull the gearbox.
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Old 11-09-2016, 05:32 PM   #4283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCristo View Post
I've not personally bent one, but others have reported the issue. Get the Exotek one next time.


Cool, Thanks man.
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Old 11-09-2016, 07:35 PM   #4285
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not sure if anyone saw these:

http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-front...1-pair-b6-b6d/

http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-hd-pu...-puck-systems/
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Old 11-10-2016, 08:50 AM   #4286
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with all these aftermarket towers you darn near could have a shootout to see whose is the strongest.

I wonder if AE may do a revision since it seems like a popular item for aftermarket replacement, at least, for what we see being made.
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Old 11-10-2016, 08:52 AM   #4287
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So what motor is better for the B6D with lay down on clay 17.5 Reedy or the 17.5SS Reedy?
Thanks
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Old 11-10-2016, 08:59 AM   #4288
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Quote:
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with all these aftermarket towers you darn near could have a shootout to see whose is the strongest.

I wonder if AE may do a revision since it seems like a popular item for aftermarket replacement, at least, for what we see being made.
Everyone is making tower, because CF is easy to design and make. Molded plastic is much harder and expensive. As far as durability? They all seem to be the same. I dont think any tower on the market is clearly more durable. Aside from maybe the VRP tower. I just refuse to put aluminum towers on my car....
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Old 11-10-2016, 09:08 AM   #4289
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duplicate
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Old 11-10-2016, 09:14 AM   #4290
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found it ....Puffy Panda's B6 Battery Brace

http://www.hobbyaction.net/products/...battery-brace#
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