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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-08-2016, 02:17 AM   #4246
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How is the wear on the arms. Anyone have to change them out already?

Any issues? Other and front shock towers?
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:33 AM   #4247
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Default Shock pistons

What is everyone using for shock pistons the stock ones or machined ones? And what about the VRP pistons anyone tried them ?
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:18 AM   #4248
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Most are using a combination of 2x1.6, 2x1.7, and 3x1.4. I have been using the FT machined variants and have the vrp's to try. everyone that I know that trys the VRP's loves them. 2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear.
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:23 AM   #4249
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Quick question, I'm installing the aluminum "D" block (91688).

If I put the 0 arm mount insert into 91688, does that equal the stock setup which used the kit part 91692?

I ask this question so I know where baseline is...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:27 AM   #4250
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Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
Quick question, I'm installing the aluminum "D" block (91688).

If I put the 0 arm mount insert into 91688, does that equal the stock setup which used the kit part 91692?

I ask this question so I know where baseline is...

Thanks in advance.
Yes.
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:39 AM   #4251
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Originally Posted by Renracer View Post
What is everyone using for shock pistons the stock ones or machined ones? And what about the VRP pistons anyone tried them ?
I use stock ones, work just fine
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:41 AM   #4252
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Anyone had issues trying to get any of the supplied servo horns in the kit to fit on a Savox servo? None seem to fit.
do yourself a favor and just get the aluminum one, works great
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:27 AM   #4253
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question on the variety of chassis protectors, I forget the name of it but the one I have seemed to come in two pieces so you could remove the rear part that covers the screws for the tranny. maybe even the front too (haven't looked that far yet).

Anyway, in general what are you guys doing to keep the "stick" of the protectors when you go to service the vehicle?
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:34 AM   #4254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
question on the variety of chassis protectors, I forget the name of it but the one I have seemed to come in two pieces so you could remove the rear part that covers the screws for the tranny. maybe even the front too (haven't looked that far yet).

Anyway, in general what are you guys doing to keep the "stick" of the protectors when you go to service the vehicle?
We use this, nobody at our track pays 15bucks for a chassis protector anymore.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-50-f...3550/100179778
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:34 AM   #4255
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Originally Posted by Eli View Post
Are you saying they were running both the spacers to lower the bulkhead and the gull wing setup?
Putting 1mm worth of spacers to lower the bulkhead gives you a lower roll center in the front of the car, it calmed it down really.

LOWER front roll center
* More on-throttle steering
* Car is less responsive
* Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:41 AM   #4256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
question on the variety of chassis protectors, I forget the name of it but the one I have seemed to come in two pieces so you could remove the rear part that covers the screws for the tranny. maybe even the front too (haven't looked that far yet).

Anyway, in general what are you guys doing to keep the "stick" of the protectors when you go to service the vehicle?
I have been cutting holes out of the protector to access what ever screws I need to get to. I'M running on astroturf only so I don't have a problem with the screw heads filling up with dirt with the screws showing
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:42 AM   #4257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post

If I put the 0 arm mount insert into 91688, does that equal the stock setup which used the kit part 91692?

Yes.

Thank you
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:51 AM   #4258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
We use this, nobody at our track pays 15bucks for a chassis protector anymore.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-50-f...3550/100179778
thanks I'll give that a look
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:52 AM   #4259
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B6 looks awesome
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:59 AM   #4260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Putting 1mm worth of spacers to lower the bulkhead gives you a lower roll center in the front of the car, it calmed it down really.

LOWER front roll center
* More on-throttle steering
* Car is less responsive
* Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners
That's what I was thinking, built mine up last night with that combination, gull wing and the 1mm spacers on top of the bulkhead. What im curios to know is where they're running their axle heights/bump steer and what if any spacers on the rack.
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