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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-04-2016, 01:57 PM   #4201
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I have just built the b6d and have set it up as per Ray Mundays set up.

4 gear stand up
31 mm kashima rear shock bodies (1.7 2 hole piston rear) 32.5 wt oil
Standard front shock bodies with machined 3 hole 1.4 pistons again 32.5 wt
10g alloy front pivot
25 gram c mount which I had to dremel down a bit to suit 4 gear stand up
10 gram d mount.
Running a 10.5t

What can I say..The car handles so beautifully! Leaves my losi 22 3.0 (which is also got a fair bit done to it) for dead!
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Old 11-04-2016, 01:59 PM   #4202
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Oh also forgot to mention running a bezerk carbon high tower as well for the longer shock bodies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I have just built the b6d and have set it up as per Ray Mundays set up.

4 gear stand up
31 mm kashima rear shock bodies (1.7 2 hole piston rear) 32.5 wt oil
Standard front shock bodies with machined 3 hole 1.4 pistons again 32.5 wt
10g alloy front pivot
25 gram c mount which I had to dremel down a bit to suit 4 gear stand up
10 gram d mount.
Running a 10.5t

What can I say..The car handles so beautifully! Leaves my losi 22 3.0 (which is also got a fair bit done to it) for dead!
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Old 11-04-2016, 02:38 PM   #4203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raym5590 View Post
either way I need the brass D mount for the weight.

As I'm looking over this all I realize this whole time I'm talking about the brass c mount
I would recommend running the car without the brass c (or d) mount. At our local track which is low/med traction dirt I am running my 6D with the aluminum c mount and kit d mount, 3 gear trans and 17.5 motor and have plenty of traction. We have another guy running his in mod and he also has plenty of traction, to the point the car pushes a bit and he is running the aluminum d and c mount. We have another guys running mod with the brass c mount and his car pushes a lot and actually has a bit of pendulum effect when the rear end breaks free.

As far as upgrade recommendations, +1 on the aluminum d mount. I would also recommend the aluminum steering rack (that's just my personal preference). The kit is just super solid out of the box after that.

Seems to be a lot of folks here on the forum breaking the carbon fiber shock mounts, but I just don't see it at our track, and there have been some really hard crashes. I haven't seen one break or crack yet.
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Old 11-04-2016, 03:42 PM   #4204
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Anyone putting holes in the slim from tires for astroturf or are the holes in the rim good enough?
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Old 11-04-2016, 03:46 PM   #4205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riverbluff View Post
I would recommend running the car without the brass c (or d) mount. At our local track which is low/med traction dirt I am running my 6D with the aluminum c mount and kit d mount, 3 gear trans and 17.5 motor and have plenty of traction. We have another guy running his in mod and he also has plenty of traction, to the point the car pushes a bit and he is running the aluminum d and c mount. We have another guys running mod with the brass c mount and his car pushes a lot and actually has a bit of pendulum effect when the rear end breaks free.

As far as upgrade recommendations, +1 on the aluminum d mount. I would also recommend the aluminum steering rack (that's just my personal preference). The kit is just super solid out of the box after that.

Seems to be a lot of folks here on the forum breaking the carbon fiber shock mounts, but I just don't see it at our track, and there have been some really hard crashes. I haven't seen one break or crack yet.
I agree
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Old 11-04-2016, 10:27 PM   #4206
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/11/rdrp-b6...ulkhead-brace/





http://www.redrc.net/2016/11/yeah-ra...-shock-holder/



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Old 11-04-2016, 11:05 PM   #4207
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Regarding the shock settings:
I am just racing 1 year, so maybe I missed something:
I drive my B6D in low/med outdoor clay/dirt track- quite bumpy.
I have seen some setups (e.g. the one crowie posted):
Most of the times the front shocks are stiffer (thicker oil and spring) than the rear. But this setup clearly has a stiffer rear shock setting? Why is that?
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Old 11-05-2016, 04:33 AM   #4208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Regarding the shock settings:
I am just racing 1 year, so maybe I missed something:
I drive my B6D in low/med outdoor clay/dirt track- quite bumpy.
I have seen some setups (e.g. the one crowie posted):
Most of the times the front shocks are stiffer (thicker oil and spring) than the rear. But this setup clearly has a stiffer rear shock setting? Why is that?
Ran that type of setup on B5m also. If I had to guess, Ray with running the 4 gear, had to get some steering back in the car so running a slightly softer front setup.
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:24 AM   #4209
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How often do you guys rebuild your shocks (like with new Xrings and pistons)? Do you do it at a specific interval or wait until there's oil vomiting out all over the car?

Every few weeks I will remove mine, check the rebound, refill and bleed as necessary. Every time I check them I'm noticing that my rebounds are off, but I'm not losing much oil. So I'm just wondering if it's time for an overhaul. I'm still on the original kit Xrings / pistons and have been racing the car weekly since the beginning of August (turf).
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:18 AM   #4210
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What effect does running the 3 hole rear Pistons with 2 hole fronts have? Do you sacrifice grip on medium bite wih a laydown? Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I have just built the b6d and have set it up as per Ray Mundays set up.

4 gear stand up
31 mm kashima rear shock bodies (1.7 2 hole piston rear) 32.5 wt oil
Standard front shock bodies with machined 3 hole 1.4 pistons again 32.5 wt
10g alloy front pivot
25 gram c mount which I had to dremel down a bit to suit 4 gear stand up
10 gram d mount.
Running a 10.5t

What can I say..The car handles so beautifully! Leaves my losi 22 3.0 (which is also got a fair bit done to it) for dead!
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:22 AM   #4211
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Smile Yokomo Green front and rear (B6D) - compare?

I am using Yokomo Green front and rear springs on my B6D for indoor clay track.. they are super plush but I don't know how they compare to the factory Associated B6D setup. Does anyone know what the Yokomo numbers mean? How they compare to Associated rates?

My current setup:
yokomo front green - 775
yokomo rear green - 1200

B6D factory setup:
associated white front - 3.3 lbs/in
associated green rear - 2.0 lbs /in
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:47 AM   #4212
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Default Gull Wing Arms

I see a lot of the team drivers start running the Gull Wing Arms on there B6D what is the adavantage or Disadvantage to these arms over the fault Arms on med to high bite indoor clay tracks
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:53 AM   #4213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renracer View Post
I see a lot of the team drivers start running the Gull Wing Arms on there B6D what is the adavantage or Disadvantage to these arms over the fault Arms on med to high bite indoor clay tracks
obviously the physical difference is the same shock moved way outboard as if you had a 5th or 6th hole on both the tower and the arm. the dip in the arm that makes it a 'gull' allows for full travel w/o a huge tall tower.

so what does that do?

associated says it increases on power steering and corner exit steering. vs. the straight arm setup that has increased turn in and less steering on exit i.e. quicker to launch down the straight if you hammer it.
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Old 11-06-2016, 12:27 PM   #4214
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Any one running angled ball cups like b5m? They come in newer packs of ball cups
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Old 11-06-2016, 12:31 PM   #4215
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Twisted check this link out I think Itll help
http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
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