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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-04-2016, 12:14 AM   #4186
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Get the aluminum d mount and practice.
That didn't answer my question...? I already have this as stated in my post.
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:44 AM   #4187
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That didn't answer my question...? I already have this as stated in my post.
It does answer your question dude

Thats the only piece you really need. The car doesn't need $1000 in hop ups, if you break something venture into upgrading that part at that time.
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Old 11-04-2016, 05:28 AM   #4188
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My b6 jumps nose high even with brakes punched when I leave the face of the jump. Should I add that 36g steel weight under the servo or use the 30g front brass bulkhead?
make sure your front shocks aren't rebounding too quickly, either from too light of a oil, too large holes in your pistons, or too stiff springs, or combination of all 3 . I say this because you say you're nailing the brakes which transfers the weight to the front end, if it's rebounding too quickly it'll still go nose up no matter what you do.
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:13 AM   #4189
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... The car doesn't need $1000 in hop ups, if you break something venture into upgrading that part at that time.
+1 from what I am reading.

If you do want another item you could look into, the only thing that at least for me I am kind of looking more into are the towers from VRP.
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:46 AM   #4190
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For B6 17.5 stock class, what if any weight are people running and where on the car for turf/carpet racing? I'm currently just running the brass front bulkhead.
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:38 AM   #4191
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Originally Posted by raym5590 View Post
That didn't answer my question...? I already have this as stated in my post.
You may want to go re-read what you typed. The Aluminum D mount is NOT listed.

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Old 11-04-2016, 08:59 AM   #4192
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
You may want to go re-read what you typed. The Aluminum D mount is NOT listed.

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The car comes with the aluminum D mount already... Not sure if you were trying to be sarcastic, also the brass hinge pin holder is what I was referring to as the D mount.
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:03 AM   #4193
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The car comes with the aluminum D mount already... Not sure if you were trying to be sarcastic
Comes with aluminum c mount. Aluminum d mount gives you ample tuning options with regard to roll center, toe, anti-squat and width. Stock d mount leaves you limited in this regard.
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:05 AM   #4194
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Originally Posted by raym5590 View Post
The car comes with the aluminum D mount already... Not sure if you were trying to be sarcastic, also the brass hinge pin holder is what I was referring to as the D mount.
No it doesn't.
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:41 AM   #4195
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Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
Comes with aluminum c mount. Aluminum d mount gives you ample tuning options with regard to roll center, toe, anti-squat and width. Stock d mount leaves you limited in this regard.
either way I need the brass D mount for the weight.

As I'm looking over this all I realize this whole time I'm talking about the brass c mount
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:46 AM   #4196
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Originally Posted by raym5590 View Post
either way I need the brass D mount for the weight.

As I'm looking over this all I realize this whole time I'm talking about the brass c mount
No worries...Either the Brass or Aluminum D mount will allow you make many more adjustments in comparison to the stock plastic piece.
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:56 AM   #4197
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No worries...Either the Brass or Aluminum D mount will allow you make many more adjustments in comparison to the stock plastic piece.
I will be picking that up today, thank you sir.
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Old 11-04-2016, 10:03 AM   #4198
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Lots of peeing in cornflakes today!

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Old 11-04-2016, 11:16 AM   #4199
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Lots of peeing in cornflakes today!

Tastes like Friday

And to be fair, I wrote that after working overnight for 12 hours
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:56 PM   #4200
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How many guys out there like be 31 millimeter long rear shocks versus the stock length shocks and why?
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