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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-01-2016, 11:04 AM   #4141
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Originally Posted by tom2tone View Post
Hey guys.. I just raced my B6 this past weekend and did pretty well with it. I have two questions and please forgive me if this was already covered.

1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.

2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?



Thanks!
If you are using the stock CVA and it popped out something is wrong with your build somewhere. This should not happen on stock at all. Post pics please.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:22 AM   #4142
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thanks for the heads up. I have what i think are the latest schelle hubs here so may put those on.
ehh, I dont 100% agree with that post on the schelle hubs and where to tune roll centers...alum hubs change the feel of the car, and with an alum camber block and an alum hubs, you are more prone to ball studs breaking. So they can still break, it is just a different part. Again, we are talking about the hub insert, not the hub. I never broke a b5 or b6 hub. Inserts? Yes. Hubs? No. Someone makes a CF insert, if you want to use the stock hubs.


When my hub insert broke this weekend, I did put on my schelle B5 hubs. The car drove differently for sure, with the same roll center adjustments. That could be because of the additional weight or the additional stiffness. Unsure, but i did like the feel.
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:47 AM   #4143
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
ehh, I dont 100% agree with that post on the schelle hubs and where to tune roll centers...alum hubs change the feel of the car, and with an alum camber block and an alum hubs, you are more prone to ball studs breaking. So they can still break, it is just a different part. Again, we are talking about the hub insert, not the hub. I never broke a b5 or b6 hub. Inserts? Yes. Hubs? No. Someone makes a CF insert, if you want to use the stock hubs.


When my hub insert broke this weekend, I did put on my schelle B5 hubs. The car drove differently for sure, with the same roll center adjustments. That could be because of the additional weight or the additional stiffness. Unsure, but i did like the feel.
I had a different problem when I ran the AE aluminum hubs on my B5M. Even with loc-tite, over time the ball studs started to work themselves loose. When I would notice/catch it, I would add new loc-tite and tighten them up again. However, when the ballstuds were loose and able to wiggle back and forth for a period of time, they slowly chewed up the threads in the hubs until the hole was stripped. This happened on both my B5M and T5M. $35 +/- down the toilet for those hubs. I'm not sure I even liked the feel of the aluminum hubs. I no longer invest in aluminum hubs. $8 for a pair of plastics for which I prefer the feel on the track is a bargain over the bling factor.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:41 PM   #4144
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I had a different problem when I ran the AE aluminum hubs on my B5M. Even with loc-tite, over time the ball studs started to work themselves loose. When I would notice/catch it, I would add new loc-tite and tighten them up again. However, when the ballstuds were loose and able to wiggle back and forth for a period of time, they slowly chewed up the threads in the hubs until the hole was stripped. This happened on both my B5M and T5M. $35 +/- down the toilet for those hubs. I'm not sure I even liked the feel of the aluminum hubs. I no longer invest in aluminum hubs. $8 for a pair of plastics for which I prefer the feel on the track is a bargain over the bling factor.
Someone makes a CF insert to replace the plastic one. Do that and there should be a non hub issue.

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Old 11-01-2016, 12:43 PM   #4145
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Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
This last on is self explanatory.
Looks like you're using a high axle height, and it could be the MIP ear would settle into the hub / get better engagement at full compression with a low axle height. Or, more specifically, I wonder if the MIP engineered this using axle heights typically specified in the 'D' configuration (+1 or maybe even 0 hub inserts).

You could verify by swapping out the inserts .. should only take a minute.

It seems (to me) that the MIP shaft is too short for this application.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:48 PM   #4146
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In the below picture capturing length comparison, you have to compare lengths from the inside of the shim on the MIP item to the inside of the CVA axle on the AE item (no shim).. could you do that and see where the ears line up?

It looks like you're comparing this using a straight edge and lining up at the threaded ends (where you start your wheel nut).

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
I've reached out to the folks at MIP regarding this, and borrowed some pics from that ppt to use here for illustration purposes.

Here is a comparision of the driveshafts, MIP vs AE
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:23 PM   #4147
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thanks for the info on the hubs. they mainly came with the vehicle so who knows, maybe they'll go up on the block.

About the inserts on the stock hubs, is there a reason carbon fiber is better to use than aluminum there?

I plan to sit down this week and get my vehicle all ready for carpet racing come Nov 12th. Will be blinky class 17.5 with no hard pin tires allowed. Basically got the parts to turn my RC10B6D into a RC10B6 with the longer rear tower, and also MIP puck system it came with and I think some titanium screws from what the previous owner said (it wasn't described in the listing but he mentioned after the fact they may be some on there).

Anyway, will get the full teardown treatment
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:45 PM   #4148
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks for the info on the hubs. they mainly came with the vehicle so who knows, maybe they'll go up on the block.

About the inserts on the stock hubs, is there a reason carbon fiber is better to use than aluminum there?

I plan to sit down this week and get my vehicle all ready for carpet racing come Nov 12th. Will be blinky class 17.5 with no hard pin tires allowed. Basically got the parts to turn my RC10B6D into a RC10B6 with the longer rear tower, and also MIP puck system it came with and I think some titanium screws from what the previous owner said (it wasn't described in the listing but he mentioned after the fact they may be some on there).

Anyway, will get the full teardown treatment
The CF replaces the plastic piece, not the alum piece.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:44 PM   #4149
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
In the below picture capturing length comparison, you have to compare lengths from the inside of the shim on the MIP item to the inside of the CVA axle on the AE item (no shim).. could you do that and see where the ears line up?

It looks like you're comparing this using a straight edge and lining up at the threaded ends (where you start your wheel nut).
The captured part is lined up enough to tell the cv is quite a bit too short either way. This is a defect imo or a you have the wrong cv axles in your kit.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:47 PM   #4150
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Looks like you're using a high axle height, and it could be the MIP ear would settle into the hub / get better engagement at full compression with a low axle height. Or, more specifically, I wonder if the MIP engineered this using axle heights typically specified in the 'D' configuration (+1 or maybe even 0 hub inserts).

You could verify by swapping out the inserts .. should only take a minute.

It seems (to me) that the MIP shaft is too short for this application.
+3 axle height is stock setup for the b6. Either way the cva axle is 65mm for both kits. Mip just made the cv too short.
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:19 AM   #4151
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Looks like you're using a high axle height, and it could be the MIP ear would settle into the hub / get better engagement at full compression with a low axle height. Or, more specifically, I wonder if the MIP engineered this using axle heights typically specified in the 'D' configuration (+1 or maybe even 0 hub inserts).

You could verify by swapping out the inserts .. should only take a minute.

It seems (to me) that the MIP shaft is too short for this application.
Try double shimming the axle with the larger old shim should move the entire cvd into the diff cup. Not sure it will work on as stepped axles but I used to play with this on the kyosho buggies for traction so it does change plunge also maybe moving in the inner hinge pin with the c and d inserts will keep u running just not sure how the car will handle set up that way. I'd at least give it a shot.
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:17 AM   #4152
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
Try double shimming the axle with the larger old shim should move the entire cvd into the diff cup. Not sure it will work on as stepped axles but I used to play with this on the kyosho buggies for traction so it does change plunge also maybe moving in the inner hinge pin with the c and d inserts will keep u running just not sure how the car will handle set up that way. I'd at least give it a shot.
Can't double shim the axle in the hub because the hole for the cross pin for the wheel hex will be underneath the bearing and you won't be able to get the pin in.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:52 AM   #4153
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
In the below picture capturing length comparison, you have to compare lengths from the inside of the shim on the MIP item to the inside of the CVA axle on the AE item (no shim).. could you do that and see where the ears line up?

It looks like you're comparing this using a straight edge and lining up at the threaded ends (where you start your wheel nut).
Good point, your right, that'd be the better comparison.

Post 4137 looks like it got overlooked.

PSA

Tech support at MIP states:

"Gear diff outdrives not compatible with bi-metal 17.5 drive system. Only roller pucks are compatible with gear diff, which are a different length (e.g. longer)"

So if you want the bi metal 17.5 pucks setup, your married to the ball diff, for now.
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:59 AM   #4154
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ok guys Roll bars??

Im new to racing buggies and have just started to look at roll bars for our indoor winder racing here, as the grip is stupid high and with yellow minipins its like driving scalextric sometimes

I have seen setup sheets with bars in use, but was wondering just how you know if your running too stiff a bar.

Im at a level of ability where Im middle of the field, rubbish at qualifying, but in finals I seem to be able to do the deed and chase hard, not much good as usually in the B or C final as I qualified rubbish LOL

so Im still learning what changes do and how they feel.

what would the signs be if the bars are too stiff?
ie fit the thickest bars front and rear?

sadly I dont have a facility to really test or practise, its race day and thats it, so Im trying to learn as much as possible in theory and not waste raceday
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:03 AM   #4155
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Someone makes a CF insert to replace the plastic one. Do that and there should be a non hub issue.

who makes those cf hub links ??
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