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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-31-2016, 03:34 PM   #4126
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Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
So do I, the MIP 16041 lets you do that.

Thanks for your input but please let someone with this setup answer my question.
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wow dude, eat a snickers.
I would have told to eat something else, not a snickers.

BigChris, Scott was trying to help you out. I could probably easily tell you what is wrong, but I dont care to because of your mouth. Have fun trying to figure it out.
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:08 PM   #4127
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He didn't say or do anything wrong to be honest. He simply stated that he would like someone with the same setup to answer instead of someone without knowledge of the exact same setup. He didn't name call or be rude in any way. In fact he even thanked for the input. And yes he did try and help but he was apparently unaware that you could use gear diffs with the MIP setup so he was giving input on something he didn't even know you could do.
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:11 PM   #4128
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He didn't say or do anything wrong to be honest. He simply stated that he would like someone with the same setup to answer instead of someone without knowledge of the exact same setup. He didn't name call or be rude in any way. In fact he even thanked for the input. And yes he did try and help but he was apparently unaware that you could use gear diffs with the MIP setup so he was giving input on something he didn't even know you could do.
He didnt name call, you're right. But just because someone doesn't run that exact same set up doesn't mean they dont know the answer.

So since I don't run gear diffs with my pucks, even though I am pretty sure I know whats wrong, I won't tell him the solution to his problem.
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:48 AM   #4129
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Default Rear Hubs??

Ok finally started my B6d build and I am wondering about rear hubs ?
Is there a newer version aluminum rear hub for the B6 buggies that racers are using or should I just vulture them off my B5M
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:29 AM   #4130
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I've reached out to the folks at MIP regarding this, and borrowed some pics from that ppt to use here for illustration purposes.

Here is a comparision of the driveshafts, MIP vs AE


Here is a pick showing the dogbone ears with the suspension at full extension. While this is IMO less than ideal it's not where the problem occurs as others have alluded too.



Here is where the engagement issue presents itself. This is with the rear suspension half way compressed.

This last on is self explanatory.


For those who are wondering:
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:36 AM   #4131
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Are the stock hubs that bad??
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:43 AM   #4132
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Are the stock hubs that bad??
i broke the insert this past weekend after probably 1000 laps....
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:53 AM   #4133
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Ok finally started my B6d build and I am wondering about rear hubs ?
Is there a newer version aluminum rear hub for the B6 buggies that racers are using or should I just vulture them off my B5M
http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...-Black-SCH1234
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:13 AM   #4134
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
He didnt name call, you're right. But just because someone doesn't run that exact same set up doesn't mean they dont know the answer.

So since I don't run gear diffs with my pucks, even though I am pretty sure I know whats wrong, I won't tell him the solution to his problem.
This is now the Tamiya Mini Cooper thread? Granpa V 2.0...?
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:26 AM   #4135
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Default Stock hubs

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Are the stock hubs that bad??
They just don't have the adjustability or the durability the aluminum hubs have , I prefer to adjust the camber link on the hub instead of the ball stud holder
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:34 AM   #4136
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Picked up some of the new schelle b6 hubs and they're really nice.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:23 AM   #4137
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PSA

Tech support at MIP states:

"Gear diff outdrives not compatible with bi-metal 17.5 drive system. Only roller pucks are compatible with gear diff, which are a different length"
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:27 AM   #4138
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Hey guys.. I just raced my B6 this past weekend and did pretty well with it. I have two questions and please forgive me if this was already covered.

1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.

2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?



Thanks!
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:36 AM   #4139
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Originally Posted by tom2tone View Post
Hey guys.. I just raced my B6 this past weekend and did pretty well with it. I have two questions and please forgive me if this was already covered.

1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.

2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?



Thanks!
I have broke 4 front towers and 2 rear tower....never had a bone pop out. Neither pucks, nor kits bones. So, I assume something is wrong with your build.....


As far as the towers go, sanding removes the sharp edges and should let the tower slide more and "catch" less. This helps to reduce the force on the tower. As far as CA goes....the top of the tower is not perfectly smooth, you can fell the ridges. sanding should also remove these, but the CA just adds a little more protection. Does the CA help the tower last longer? Unsure, but it does not hurt.....
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:54 AM   #4140
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
i broke the insert this past weekend after probably 1000 laps....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
They just don't have the adjustability or the durability the aluminum hubs have , I prefer to adjust the camber link on the hub instead of the ball stud holder
thanks for the heads up. I have what i think are the latest schelle hubs here so may put those on.
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