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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-31-2016, 07:08 AM   #4111
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Default Mounted a different body and added stickers to my B6D latemodel.

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Old 10-31-2016, 07:18 AM   #4112
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I still cant hang with the custom works rockets latemodels but I'm going to keep at it and not give up so easily.
I'm pretty sure I got the car the way I wanted. I was turning 2 extra laps with this than my other cars.
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:48 AM   #4113
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Informal survey:

How many of you actually use the links to the aftermarket parts on the front page?

I don't mind updating, but I'm starting to wonder how useful people find it...Let me know....
I use them as well. It is a great place for researching parts. .
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:30 AM   #4114
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Anybody having premature wear issues with the MIP bimetal pucks setup on their B6?

I can shred the 13131 orange plastic pucks in like 2-3 packs worth of use. (Indoors carpet, 17.5) IMO the dogbone doesnt engage the outdrive enough, and the tire side of the pucks is barely flush with the end of the outdrive when the suspension is completely unloaded (car in air).

I had a driveshaft pop out during a race on Saturday, resulting in my car losing power on the longest straight on our track, and basically causing a wreck that damaged someone else's car.

I have the 16085 spacers installed, and the pin that the clamping wheel hex engages is basically touching the races of outermost bearing of the rear hub (meaning the axle cant go anymore inboard)

Parts list I'm using:
16085 spacer conversion
16041 gear diff outdrives
14230 bi-metal pucks
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:58 AM   #4115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
Anybody having premature wear issues with the MIP bimetal pucks setup on their B6?

I can shred the 13131 orange plastic pucks in like 2-3 packs worth of use. (Indoors carpet, 17.5) IMO the dogbone doesnt engage the outdrive enough, and the tire side of the pucks is barely flush with the end of the outdrive when the suspension is completely unloaded (car in air).

I had a driveshaft pop out during a race on Saturday, resulting in my car losing power on the longest straight on our track, and basically causing a wreck that damaged someone else's car.

I have the 16085 spacers installed, and the pin that the clamping wheel hex engages is basically touching the races of outermost bearing of the rear hub (meaning the axle cant go anymore inboard)

Parts list I'm using:
16085 spacer conversion
16041 gear diff outdrives
14230 bi-metal pucks
are you runnning the correct amount of limiters in the shocks, and the correct shock ends for your setup?
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:18 AM   #4116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
I still cant hang with the custom works rockets latemodels but I'm going to keep at it and not give up so easily.
I'm pretty sure I got the car the way I wanted. I was turning 2 extra laps with this than my other cars.
Looks good those bodies have good downforce. How does you motor compare to what everyone else is running. Do not want to be out motored on oval.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:19 AM   #4117
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Quote:
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are you runnning the correct amount of limiters in the shocks, and the correct shock ends for your setup?
Please see the manual, pg 14, bag 20-22, step 1. It calls for no limiters in the rear shocks. Step 2 calls for short eyelets.

I run qty 2 .030" spacers and short eyelets in the rear shocks.

Do you run pucks?
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:31 AM   #4118
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B6 with stock setup with no limiter and no pucks I have almost 2mm of dog bone engagement at full extension. So with pucks that would put it pretty much flush like you say. Sounds like the dogbone needs to be longer with the pucks or you need to run some limiters in the shock. Your shocks are on the front of the arm right.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:50 AM   #4119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post

Do you run pucks?
Nope, I run Gear diffs
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:55 AM   #4120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
Nope, I run Gear diffs
So do I, the MIP 16041 lets you do that.

Thanks for your input but please let someone with this setup answer my question.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:59 AM   #4121
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B6 with stock setup with no limiter and no pucks I have almost 2mm of dog bone engagement at full extension. So with pucks that would put it pretty much flush like you say. Sounds like the dogbone needs to be longer with the pucks or you need to run some limiters in the shock. Your shocks are on the front of the arm right.
Shock front of arm, mid hole tower, inner hole arm, qty 2 .030" limiter spacers
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:09 PM   #4122
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Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
So do I, the MIP 16041 lets you do that.

Thanks for your input but please let someone with this setup answer my question.
wow dude, eat a snickers.
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:44 PM   #4123
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I would get in touch with mip about this.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:35 PM   #4124
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This isn't the first time I've heard of this. Heard of this happening locally as well with them popping out.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:32 PM   #4125
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wow dude, eat a snickers.
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