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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-30-2016, 01:35 PM
  #4096  
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Yeah, the spacers under the piston take away droop. Remove them and the shock will go to full droop. If that is not enough then unscrew lower shock eyes. Or for quick adjustments you can unscrew for tuning purposes.
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Old 10-30-2016, 01:47 PM
  #4097  
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Originally Posted by Thrifty
I saw a couple of those spacer when I rebuilt the shocks. Never saw that before. (Bought it previously owned).

Still clueless on how to actually do it though.. I'm sure it's super simple once I get it though.. will poke around some more when I get home.
Internal limiters or stroke length
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Old 10-30-2016, 02:01 PM
  #4098  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Hanger Pill adjustment: left mine kit middle middle. When tuning roll center, am I correct in my assumption that pointing the pins downward lowers roll center (same as more shims on rear tower camber link)? And pointing up is raising roll center (eliminating shims from camber link)?. Already set on anti squat, toe and track width just want to make sure I've got this right. Also, what makes this adjustment different from adjust roll center at the inner camber link mount? Thx all

Pointing them down raise the roll center and moving them up lowers it.
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Old 10-30-2016, 02:36 PM
  #4099  
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I'm running a turnigy trackstar stock spec V2 anyone have a good recommendation for gearing on my B6? Currently running 29/72
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Old 10-30-2016, 03:03 PM
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What turn?
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Old 10-30-2016, 03:25 PM
  #4101  
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Sorry 17.5
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:21 PM
  #4102  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy
Yeah, the spacers under the piston take away droop. Remove them and the shock will go to full droop. If that is not enough then unscrew lower shock eyes. Or for quick adjustments you can unscrew for tuning purposes.
Dang.. so basically you have to rebuild the shock to adjust things up?.. sure gonna miss that screw on my 1:8th....
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:56 PM
  #4103  
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Originally Posted by Thrifty
Dang.. so basically you have to rebuild the shock to adjust things up?.. sure gonna miss that screw on my 1:8th....
Yeah I absolutely hate this design. On 1/10 touring cars we used to have the droop screws and of course on 1/8 too.
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:57 PM
  #4104  
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Yeah, basically, but I have never had to make droop changes in 1/10 as I have in 1/8th. I have used tie wraps to make some droop changes for testing. Wasn't exactly scientific testing but it worked.
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:58 PM
  #4105  
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Well, my first night with the b6d was a success. Was really pressed for time to make it this weekend, but was able to finish painting the night before and cut/trim the day of. Threw on some unprepared tires from my old b5 and was able to qualify 4th in the A in mod 2wd and then take 1st in the main in style with some close battling. Car felt slow, and while I was "on pace", I wasn't where I wanted to be and really needed to rely on clean runs vs all out ability. Went back up to the track the next day(today) and re-foamed my fronts with some new closed cell and boom, car was tits amazing. I figured I was gonna do some tuning but all it was was floppy front foams on high bite where lots of us run slicks or ghosted tires. I ran and won with the box stock setup with the long shocks. I'm definitely impressed with this car. Kit quality and drivability and competitiveness right from the box is just amazing.
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:14 PM
  #4106  
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Originally Posted by LVNeptune
I'm running a turnigy trackstar stock spec V2 anyone have a good recommendation for gearing on my B6? Currently running 29/72
Me too
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:42 PM
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72/36......I'm carrying over a 5.2 FDR (66/33) with a Team Powers Actium from my B5m..... I run a fan. Medium size clay (Tacoma RC Raceway) should be close with the 6 but going to run a SS Reedy Mach 3 from my TC....
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:52 PM
  #4108  
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I'm not changing gearing at all until I get my issue resolved. Apparently my XR10 justock esc's sensor port is not functioning. The 29t did increase my speed but it's been running without timing =/
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
Informal survey:

How many of you actually use the links to the aftermarket parts on the front page?

I don't mind updating, but I'm starting to wonder how useful people find it...Let me know....
I use them a lot, I especially like that I can come back periodically and see all the new stuff available in 1 big list
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:45 AM
  #4110  
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Originally Posted by TAW
Yeah I absolutely hate this design. On 1/10 touring cars we used to have the droop screws and of course on 1/8 too.
yeah that was one of the pluses I liked on the Durango till I ran on really old school dirt and the perch the screw would go onto for the front would pack up with dirt. Made a special "shaved" bulkhead just for that reason to remove the perches.

Its a minor thing though but still cool to have, especially with the conditions we race on these days.
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