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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-28-2016, 10:26 AM   #4066
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I sanded my side rail with a Dremel to allow the driver to reach the screw. Another option is to use Socket Head Cap screws to mount the motor and a Ball driver to reach them on an angle
I changed to socket screw to allow ballend driver to work.
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Old 10-28-2016, 10:33 AM   #4067
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Scott,
Are you talking about shimming under the piston to limit the fully extended length of the rear shock?

If so how much you talking about?
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Old 10-28-2016, 10:45 AM   #4068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I sanded my side rail with a Dremel to allow the driver to reach the screw. Another option is to use Socket Head Cap screws to mount the motor and a Ball driver to reach them on an angle
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=MOTOR

Best motor screws and allows you to use a 2.5mm ball end.
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Old 10-28-2016, 11:14 AM   #4069
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Originally Posted by Mason View Post
tsair, what drove you to settle on a 23 mm ride height? What compound tires are these primes/electrons?

It seems you are in an interesting position going between slicks and treads in the same day. Is there any sort of track prep or maintenance that occurs during the event?
23 is my usual ride height that seems to work best. Using clay compound tires. The track starts out damp, but depending on mister frequency and humidity/temperture, it can dry out. Or sometimes it's intentionally run dry for treaded tires.

The number doesn't matter, the point is people use a number, and then stick with it regardless of tire change.

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Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Whether you adjust your shock collars or not, your center of gravity, roll centers, etc will change by adding a tire that is 1mm higher. IMHO, like someone already said, not really enough to matter.
I think measuring ride height on a totally flat, hard surface (like we all do), probably isn't actually that representative of the buggy on the dirt. With slicks, the surface is super hard and tacky, and that's why it works good. The tires sits on the top of the clay (duh).

Once it gets dusty, or dries out, we have to switch to mini-pins, but the pins are actually digging into the surface a tiny bit (for convenience sake, I'm just going to say 1mm). So the distance from the surface of the dirt to the bottom of your buggy is probably close to the same with the minipins as it is with the slicks (on the hard, tacky surface).

Obviously the surface isn't perfectly flat, the amount the tire digs in, etc. isn't the same, etc. I'm speaking in generalizations.

Just food for thought. Obviously, do whatever makes you feel happy, whatever works best for you and your buggy, just providing alternative thought on the subject. Experiment.

Age is just a number. Just like your ride height.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:39 PM   #4070
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Start with 1 mm

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Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
Scott,
Are you talking about shimming under the piston to limit the fully extended length of the rear shock?

If so how much you talking about?
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:57 PM   #4071
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Got my little buggy all wired up this afternoon. I have till this Wednesday to get everything else set up and ready run.. wheels, radio settings, adjustments and weight balancing these next few days...

Looking forward to my first run with this scale at my track.

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Old 10-28-2016, 04:51 PM   #4072
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if I want to convert a b6d to a b6 all I have to do is get the gullwing arms, wide shock tower, gear diff, laydown trans, and mount the shocks with the short eyelets on the front of the arm. Correct?
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:54 PM   #4073
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Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
if I want to convert a b6d to a b6 all I have to do is get the gullwing arms, wide shock tower, gear diff, laydown trans, and mount the shocks with the short eyelets on the front of the arm. Correct?
or mount them on the rear....If you want to build it per the manual setup then yes you would need all that.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:12 PM   #4074
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The C-block inserts are also different. Springs/oils are also completely different if you don't already have some you are planning on using.
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Old 10-28-2016, 10:42 PM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
if I want to convert a b6d to a b6 all I have to do is get the gullwing arms, wide shock tower, gear diff, laydown trans, and mount the shocks with the short eyelets on the front of the arm. Correct?
Front axle height shims are different as well. My B6 kit would not allow me to adjust my axle for the dirt setup I was after so I'm assuming it's the same the otherr way. Just a small detail. Ae sells the shim kit to get more adjustment as does schelle and maybe some other companies.
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Old 10-29-2016, 03:38 AM   #4076
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Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
Got my little buggy all wired up this afternoon. I have till this Wednesday to get everything else set up and ready run.. wheels, radio settings, adjustments and weight balancing these next few days...

Looking forward to my first run with this scale at my track.

Love your choice of electronics. Very nice.

I would recommend shortening the negative (-) wire to the battery so you cannot accidentally plug it in to the positive. That's such a nice speedy I would hate for it to ever go up in smoke.

Only speaking from personal experience.
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Old 10-29-2016, 03:51 AM   #4077
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Thanks man... I'll be paying attention to that detail for sure.
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:14 AM   #4078
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I was thinking the same thing about shortening the battery leads also from experience. Smoked an LRP back in the day by doing that, in my defense it was on a 22 1.0 with the esc in the stock location and it was very easy to do that even with the wiring being as short as possible. I have been very happy with that servo I bought two more for my other rigs and have that speedo for my B6 as well since I am very happy with the v3.1 in my b5m.
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Old 10-29-2016, 05:32 PM   #4079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=MOTOR

Best motor screws and allows you to use a 2.5mm ball end.
I was using them and just switched to Schelle motor screws on this car. Maybe I'll switch back
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:33 PM   #4080
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what would be the benefit of running TLR 22 3. rear hubs on the b6
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