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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-27-2016, 11:05 PM   #4051
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Default B6 Wheel / Tire Combo For Carpet

Can someone give me some advice on a wheel and tire combo to start out with for racing on a carpet track? What is the advantage of running the 61mm wheel that Associated lists in the manual?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:12 AM   #4052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belewis01 View Post
This +1
I've thought about this some more. What started out as a question to get feedback, turned into some responses and then thinking about the responses because they didn't seem right, which then turned into a seeming revelation and thought formulation about what the answer actually is.

I think most people would agree with Matt's comment that you should always reset ride height before each pack. That's pretty much conventional wisdom.

But I think we're doing it wrong, and I've posted thoughts on why I think that way on my blog.

http://razorrc.tumblr.com/

Tell me I suck, tell me I'm wrong, whatever, that's fine. We can move on and go back to talking about breaking shock towers or thrust screw orientation or whatever.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:58 AM   #4053
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Need some gearing help for a B6(D) (Laydown for Carpet) I want to take a Turnigy Gen II 13.5T Motor.
Should I use the 72 teeth spur? Or 75? And for pinion?
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:25 AM   #4054
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Basically u needed to change your ride height instead of the tires or the primes still weren't working. Raising rideheight is always going to add some traction to a point. The chassis rolls more
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:53 AM   #4055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HK500Pilot View Post
Can someone give me some advice on a wheel and tire combo to start out with for racing on a carpet track? What is the advantage of running the 61mm wheel that Associated lists in the manual?

Thanks for the help!
Schumacher mini pins and cut staggers or JConcepts pindowns and swaggers. Some tracks don't allow pin tires, but if yours does, then that's where to go. Check the carpet track thread for more info on tires, setup for carpet, etc.
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:50 AM   #4056
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I know it's been addressed but I can't find it on a search. With a lay down trans it's difficult to access the bottom motor screw, the plastic chassis side rail gets in the way. Is anyone modifying the rail in anyway to allow easier access?
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:58 AM   #4057
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
I know it's been addressed but I can't find it on a search. With a lay down trans it's difficult to access the bottom motor screw, the plastic chassis side rail gets in the way. Is anyone modifying the rail in anyway to allow easier access?
I sanded my side rail with a Dremel to allow the driver to reach the screw. Another option is to use Socket Head Cap screws to mount the motor and a Ball driver to reach them on an angle
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:05 AM   #4058
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tsair, what drove you to settle on a 23 mm ride height? What compound tires are these primes/electrons?

It seems you are in an interesting position going between slicks and treads in the same day. Is there any sort of track prep or maintenance that occurs during the event?
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:13 AM   #4059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
I've thought about this some more. What started out as a question to get feedback, turned into some responses and then thinking about the responses because they didn't seem right, which then turned into a seeming revelation and thought formulation about what the answer actually is.

I think most people would agree with Matt's comment that you should always reset ride height before each pack. That's pretty much conventional wisdom.

But I think we're doing it wrong, and I've posted thoughts on why I think that way on my blog.

http://razorrc.tumblr.com/

Tell me I suck, tell me I'm wrong, whatever, that's fine. We can move on and go back to talking about breaking shock towers or thrust screw orientation or whatever.
Whether you adjust your shock collars or not, your center of gravity, roll centers, etc will change by adding a tire that is 1mm higher. IMHO, like someone already said, not really enough to matter.
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:26 AM   #4060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HK500Pilot View Post
Can someone give me some advice on a wheel and tire combo to start out with for racing on a carpet track? What is the advantage of running the 61mm wheel that Associated lists in the manual?

Thanks for the help!
Lots of different carpet, nylon office, ozite, EOS style ollfin? Can you run pins or is it restricted
to slicks? If you can find out more about the surface or post a link to the track we can help
more with tire choice. Best bet might be to call and ask what they run.

As far as 60mm wheels go there are no carpet specific tires made for those wheels that i
know of. Only real use to you might be for clay "slicks" if thats what your track is using.
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:37 AM   #4061
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For anyone running an 8.5 motor... what pinion/spur are you running? I'm getting my buggy set-up and am just going off the book recommendations. (First 1:10th buggy)
The motor's a hobbywing V2 if that matters.
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:59 AM   #4062
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On the subject of gearing, what is a good starting point for 17.5? I have not got my buggy yet but just curious where to start. I can't wait to get it and start building.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:02 AM   #4063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
Raising rideheight is always going to add some traction to a point. The chassis rolls more
Hmm this is interesting and got me thinking.

Ozite carpet (drprc.com), B6, Pin downs and cut staggers. Stock setup (pistons, oil viscosity, camber link locations, 1 neg camber all the way around) 17.5T.

Track has a 20-25 yds long back straight, with a 90 right turn at the end. At 19mm ride height and new tires, come in too hot, and I traction roll into wall (not good).

I lowered the ride height to 15mm (what some of the real fast guys run) and traction roll went completely away.

As my rear tires have worn, the car is now loose under brakes into this turn (before or during apex). Is the logical thing to start increasing ride height to gain more grip as the tires wear, or should I be looking at another adjustment. I can be easier on the brakes, but it's not the fastest.

Also I noticed, the left rear tire is wearing heavily on the outside edge (which makes sense given the above conditions). Should I think about going to -2 or even -3 camber on the LR to correct for camber gain as the car leans around this turn.

What about asymmetric camber in the rear? Track layout has 5 right turns, and 3 lefts, where besides the high speed 90, there is another fast right 180 with a double in it. What would happen if I ran -3 on the LR and -1 on the RR?

I do keep my tires pretty fresh, but I'd like to get more than one or two track days out of them.

As you can tell, I'm pretty green at the car setup thing. The car is planted and easy to drive everywhere else. Just looking to address the loose condition in the high speed, on the brakes turn.
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Old 10-28-2016, 08:53 AM   #4064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
On the subject of gearing, what is a good starting point for 17.5? I have not got my buggy yet but just curious where to start. I can't wait to get it and start building.
31/69
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:18 AM   #4065
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Chris,
Your tire wear is coming from the very fast sweeper, what we are doing is rotating the tires every run... As far as tuning to tire wear, don't add ride height, as you will need to correct geometry as you change cog.. insteado look to adding a shim to rear shock,this eliminates forward weight transfer, along with some antiquat setting changes.

You can also adjust your epa on your radioto tone down your brakes a touch, as the cars are very light in the rear..
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