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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-27-2016, 10:28 AM   #4036
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But what side was the ball diff hex on when these breakages occurred?

Hahaha that just made my day!
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:48 AM   #4037
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But what side was the ball diff hex on when these breakages occurred?

the hex adds extra weight to that one side therefore puts additional stress on the tower of that side. Best thing to do is put a 10g weight opposite of the diff screw head to balance and spread the load equally across the tower.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:41 PM   #4038
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I just bought a B6D today and have a question about an aftermarket part. Does the Exotek Direct Spur mount make that big of a difference as opposed to what is in the Team Kit?

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:43 PM   #4039
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Originally Posted by Kev1966 View Post
I just bought a B6D today and have a question about an aftermarket part. Does the Exotek Direct Spur mount make that big of a difference as opposed to what is in the Team Kit?

Thanks,

Kevin
It gets rid of the slipper and should only really be used in 17.5 classes when racing on tracks with med-high traction.
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Old 10-27-2016, 01:50 PM   #4040
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It gets rid of the slipper and should only really be used in 17.5 classes when racing on tracks with med-high traction.
Great, thanks Matt!!
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:25 PM   #4041
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
the hex adds extra weight to that one side therefore puts additional stress on the tower of that side. Best thing to do is put a 10g weight opposite of the diff screw head to balance and spread the load equally across the tower.
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:39 PM   #4042
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i have took my slipper lock out off even on high bite. maybe if ur track dont have a lot of 180's it might be ok but with my monster trinity hp seems to break loose with a slipper delete. spend that 12 bucks on some tires.
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Old 10-27-2016, 03:43 PM   #4043
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More likely to "break loose" with no slipper regardless of motor...
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #4044
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Are you guys raising/lowering your ride heights when changing tires? For example, my Electrons are about 1-2mm radius bigger than my slicks. When I slap on the Electrons, lowering the ride height 1mm produces a bunch of unwanted effects (camber angles, camber link geometry, etc.) that would be a pain to re-sort.

Doing some testing, it seems better to just leave the car untouched, which means you are driving at different ride heights, depending on the tire.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:10 PM   #4045
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Are you guys raising/lowering your ride heights when changing tires? For example, my Electrons are about 1-2mm radius bigger than my slicks. When I slap on the Electrons, lowering the ride height 1mm produces a bunch of unwanted effects (camber angles, camber link geometry, etc.) that would be a pain to re-sort.

Doing some testing, it seems better to just leave the car untouched, which means you are driving at different ride heights, depending on the tire.
You should always reset ride height when changing tires...I check ride height before each run.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:24 PM   #4046
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You should always reset ride height when changing tires...I check ride height before each run.
But then you're affecting camber, roll centers, etc.

In other words, you can't just adjust your shock collars to get the same ride height when switching tires. Theoretically you need to re-adjust everything, including camber links, ballstud heights, etc. to get the same (relative) roll centers, etc.

If you extrapolate to an extreme case -- let's say you set your ride height to 23mm and then use a 3mm bigger radius tire -- you can't just drop your car 3mm to compensate, this would be a huge change to everything. Your arm angles would be too low, you would be in a different part of the spring travel, your camber links would be more angled, etc.

Anyways, just something I noticed. On the B6, 1mm ride height makes such a huge difference, probably mostly because the geometry of everything changes. In my opinion, this is why AE provided axle height adjustments in the B6 -- if you want to change ride heights, you can also compensate in the axle heights to keep the geometry of everything the same.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:30 PM   #4047
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It's not as drastic as you make it seem.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:38 PM   #4048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
But then you're affecting camber, roll centers, etc.

In other words, you can't just adjust your shock collars to get the same ride height when switching tires. Theoretically you need to re-adjust everything, including camber links, ballstud heights, etc. to get the same (relative) roll centers, etc.

If you extrapolate to an extreme case -- let's say you set your ride height to 23mm and then use a 3mm bigger radius tire -- you can't just drop your car 3mm to compensate, this would be a huge change to everything. Your arm angles would be too low, you would be in a different part of the spring travel, your camber links would be more angled, etc.

Anyways, just something I noticed. On the B6, 1mm ride height makes such a huge difference, probably mostly because the geometry of everything changes. In my opinion, this is why AE provided axle height adjustments in the B6 -- if you want to change ride heights, you can also compensate in the axle heights to keep the geometry of everything the same.


Forget about it. Adjust ride height and go fast. I have been doing good with my B6D with the kit set up, laydown transmission and brass C Block. The track changes all the time anyway.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:09 PM   #4049
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Forget about it. Adjust ride height and go fast. I have been doing good with my B6D with the kit set up, laydown transmission and brass C Block. The track changes all the time anyway.
I need to do some more testing, but for me it seems to be more consistent if I set my slicks to 23mm and then my electrons to 24mm and don't change ride height back and forth just with just a swap of the tire. Obviously traction is different, but the buggy behaves more consistently similar between the tires (in terms of roll, corner entry/mid/exit, etc.) this way. And I'm pretty sure it's because you're not causing all of these extra side effects as a result of just dropping/jacking ride height a mm or two between tires.

Was trying to figure out why, and had never heard of this idea before. Most people are just like "dude, you GOTTA be at 23/18/30mm no matter what!".
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:37 PM   #4050
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It's not as drastic as you make it seem.
This +1
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