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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-25-2016, 11:32 AM   #3991
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The car is really good on durability. My only concern with the car, has been the front towers. But.... our local track put a chain link fence right next to 3 sets of doubles. I suspect that is the main cause of my tower issues.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:44 AM   #3992
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If you are running on dirt I would recommend the ball diff. Kit does not come with wheels/tires. I would also recommend the aluminum D mount for tuning purposes.
I'll be running it on indoor clay that is medium to high grip. What about any of the brass stuff? I know running stock you usually want to keep the weight to a minimum but if it makes it handle better I'm open to options.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:48 AM   #3993
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I'll be running it on indoor clay that is medium to high grip. What about any of the brass stuff? I know running stock you usually want to keep the weight to a minimum but if it makes it handle better I'm open to options.
setups are all over the place. I am using the brass battery weights. but no other brass. instead of the brass C block, you can add some weight with lead back there. That being said, I ordered the 12g brass C-block to try out.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:51 AM   #3994
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Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
I'll be running it on indoor clay that is medium to high grip. What about any of the brass stuff? I know running stock you usually want to keep the weight to a minimum but if it makes it handle better I'm open to options.
I would pick up the 12g brass as well to experiment with. I have been running outdoors lately and the heavier my car is the better its been. I was just over 1600g last club race with the standup car. However...indoors (ocrc) I had the laydown with the 12g brass, I tried the 25g and it felt lazy. Also, play around with the rear shock location if running the laydown. I preferred shocks on the front as opposed to the rear at ocrc. Didn't reduce grip much but felt quicker through the corners.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:44 PM   #3995
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Quote:
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Pop Survey: I'm still debating about picking up a B6/D somewhere around the New Year. I am curious about actual numbers and not about "this other guy at the track". So if you have had to personally replace the items below due to breakage, let me know how many times.

How many have you replaced:

Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
I have replaced a front tower, but I don't feel like it was a particularly weak part of the car. I crashed, the tower absorbed the impact, and broke. I really didn't worry about it before the crash and don't worry about it now. Cars can break when they crash.

Since you're asking: If your hobby shop does not stock towers then I would suggest having one handy just in case. It goes without saying that none of these items break without crashing; so for any crash you risk breaking something. How often, how hard, and how your track conditions are that can increase your chances (chain link fence!) are pretty subjective. But, if you're worried about it, then best to have parts available to keep your race or practice day going.



I haven't heard of any comments about any replacements/issues with the chassis or rear tower.
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:27 PM   #3996
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I would pick up the 12g brass as well to experiment with. I have been running outdoors lately and the heavier my car is the better its been. I was just over 1600g last club race with the standup car. However...indoors (ocrc) I had the laydown with the 12g brass, I tried the 25g and it felt lazy. Also, play around with the rear shock location if running the laydown. I preferred shocks on the front as opposed to the rear at ocrc. Didn't reduce grip much but felt quicker through the corners.
OK, sounds good. I'm coming from the TLR car where the brass C-plate was almost a necessity. What all is involved in the shocks on the front of the arms?
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:36 PM   #3997
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OK, sounds good. I'm coming from the TLR car where the brass C-plate was almost a necessity. What all is involved in the shocks on the front of the arms?
You move the shock tower to the front of the tranny case (laydown only) and change the bottom shock eyelets and then mount them to the front of the arm. Schelle has an optional rear tower that uses the longer b5m rear shock bodies and allows you to use the short shock eyelets when mounting the shocks on the front/rear of the arm. The B6 manual can be found on rc10.com and will show all the laydown specific stuff.
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:14 PM   #3998
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I've read through this thread and don't remember it mentioned.. and as I just got this buggy in and was giving it a once over ...

What are the ball studs on the inside of each arm for?
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:17 PM   #3999
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I've read through this thread and don't remember it mentioned.. and as I just got this buggy in and was giving it a once over ...

What are the ball studs on the inside of each arm for?
Sway bars
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:17 PM   #4000
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Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
I've read through this thread and don't remember it mentioned.. and as I just got this buggy in and was giving it a once over ...

What are the ball studs on the inside of each arm for?
Swaybars
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:22 PM   #4001
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BOOM!!!

Everything's clear when you know the answer...
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:35 PM   #4002
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For those using jconcepts pindowns. On carpet.are you using the jconcepts insert that comes with them or something like an aka red insert? The aka insert is widely used at our track on the shumacher minipins
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:24 AM   #4003
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Default B6d 4 gear stand up

Guys do you know where I can find the instructions to build the 4 gear stand up box.

Cheers Mark
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:06 AM   #4004
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Guys do you know where I can find the instructions to build the 4 gear stand up box.

Cheers Mark
Use the SC5M manual!
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:36 AM   #4005
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Use the SC5M manual!
Thanks mate will check it out.
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