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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-20-2016, 06:29 PM   #3901
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Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
why do people run a heavier C mount when theres enough room by it to just stick some weights in there for free?
Same reason they run the laydown—to be cooler than the amount of traction their track has.
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:44 PM   #3902
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B6D showing up next week and I want y'all to know I actually read this entire thread...

Just waiting to get my hands dirty figuring out all these lil adjustments...

been running a Tekno SL for the last few months. 2wd, slipper clutch, weight difference?.. all new territory..
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:24 PM   #3903
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
I just started my build this afternoon. My bellcrank ballstud is hitting the top plate when the steering rack moves to the left, and I don't even have the link ball cup on it yet. Do I have something assembled wrong?
Did you install the 2mm washer under the ball stud like the manual says? If you did just remove it.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:31 PM   #3904
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Same reason they run the laydown—to be cooler than the amount of traction their track has.

First, I've built the laydown and stand up three gear tranny and ran them back to back and worked on set ups for both. The laydown, if you have the traction, keeps the rear end flatter and let's you drive through the turns better. The stand up tranny does have more overall traction but it feels more like the pendulum effect you had when you compared the old rear motor to the first generation of mid motor cars. Even adding the brass c mount in the landown tranny felt better than the standup. So it's a tuning thing, not necessarily a fad. Yes you can just add weight right in front of the aluminum mount to achieve nearly the same effect. I like the brass mount for having the weight in a consistent location. It's splitting hairs but it makes me feel better when testing that I can duplicate setups more consistently
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:35 PM   #3905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
B6D showing up next week and I want y'all to know I actually read this entire thread...

Just waiting to get my hands dirty figuring out all these lil adjustments...

been running a Tekno SL for the last few months. 2wd, slipper clutch, weight difference?.. all new territory..
you should watch the review by ShortCourseWorld, Jason on youtube , It was very helpful and informative
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:51 PM   #3906
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
You plan to mount these on a B5 or B6? You asked in both threads.

As an AE "purist"...keep your K parts off my AE
LOL. I have both cars and they have different rears so that's why I asked in both places.

I've only ever owned AE and TLR...never going back to TLR after this car, it's awesome. Best car I've ever owned.

That being said, both companies shocks always have to have a slight rebound, always to have some "suction" back into the shock, and after being run a few minutes have a squeaky or squishy noise and feel to them. I've been told it doesn't matter but my OCD won't let me believe it. Saw a build video for the RB6 shocks and they seem to be totally "dead" after bleeding from the bottom cartridge. The K shocks are expensive but after buying the kashimas and chrome shafts it's not a big difference.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:37 AM   #3907
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Originally Posted by Lt hopkins View Post
Can anyone confirm or deny that the b5m puck system will fit b6d
Yes it does fit, the newer packets say B5 B6 , you use these little alloy shims with the B6
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:26 AM   #3908
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Did you install the 2mm washer under the ball stud like the manual says? If you did just remove it.
The manual doesn't call for a washer on the stock plastic parts.
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:28 AM   #3909
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Not under the ballistud that I am referring to anyway...
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:24 AM   #3910
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This may have been asked before, and if so sorry.

What is the weight of the stock plastic bulkhead?

I'm looking for a little more bite in the front, and I'm thinking the brass bulkhead might be too heavy (17.5) and wondering what the weight difference is btwn the stock bulkhead and the Al one.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:12 AM   #3911
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Overall total shock length is the same for both sets of eyelets. I measured them guys... The difference in length is in the top threaded part of the eyelet. That 5mm ball sits right at the bottom of the shock shaft when fully tightened down with both eyelets. The lower spring retainer moves relatively.

Much ado about nothing.
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:26 AM   #3912
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That's because you are not supposed to tighten the eyelet all the way on the shaft. You are supposed to screw them in until you get the stroke it shows in the manual. If you are using the long eyelets and screwing them all the way in until they bottom out you are effectively adding downtravel limiters.
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:45 AM   #3913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
This may have been asked before, and if so sorry.

What is the weight of the stock plastic bulkhead?

I'm looking for a little more bite in the front, and I'm thinking the brass bulkhead might be too heavy (17.5) and wondering what the weight difference is btwn the stock bulkhead and the Al one.

Thanks in advance.
Just pickup a set of stick on weights and give each cube a try. If I remember correctly, there is plenty of room under the steering rack to place it.

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Old 10-21-2016, 06:53 AM   #3914
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
Not under the ballistud that I am referring to anyway...
Your best bet would be to post a picture. Or go through the manual again double checking it again.
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:52 AM   #3915
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Thinking about picking up another one of these for my daughters to use. I saw someone post about the RPM wide front bumper fitting, how durable are the front arms turning out to be compared to say a b4? (that would be my point of reference)

Just trying to see what I would need to up armor for them.
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