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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-20-2016, 05:11 AM   #3886
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
Do the new style ballcups need to be squeezed like the old ones and are the new ones compatible with the 5 platform?
No they dont need to be squeezed, and Yes they work on the 5 series
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:55 AM   #3887
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Which car does most people use for both Mod and Stock? I am contemplating on getting a buggy to play with for the winter.
Depends on the surface. You can get a D and for $27 have a laydown as well to swap in. Can't beat that.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:15 AM   #3888
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Long and short eyelet same overall shock length. Short eyelet lowers the spring vs long.

Picture upload failed.

I don't think it makes much difference in the end.

EDIT: Confirmed. All the eyelets do is move the relative position of the spring and shock collar on the shock body to maintain same ride height. The short eyelet allows more compression at the extreme. The only difference I can see.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:50 AM   #3889
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Originally Posted by SMcD View Post
Long and short eyelet same overall shock length. Short eyelet lowers the spring vs long.

Picture upload failed.

I don't think it makes much difference in the end.

EDIT: Confirmed. All the eyelets do is move the relative position of the spring and shock collar on the shock body to maintain same ride height. The short eyelet allows more compression at the extreme. The only difference I can see.

This is incorrect. Shock eyelet length can change overall length of the shock. If you adjust the stroke by turning the short eyelet out to get the same relative shock length, you end up with more up travel. If you want to move the relative position of the spring, change the shock cup.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:50 AM   #3890
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Depends on the surface. You can get a D and for $27 have a laydown as well to swap in. Can't beat that.
Thanks Matt. I should have been a little more specific, but the surface would be indoor clay that is medium to high bite.

Are most people just buying the 6D and purchasing the lay down tranny?
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:53 AM   #3891
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Originally Posted by ChadB. View Post
Thanks Matt. I should have been a little more specific, but the surface would be indoor clay that is medium to high bite.

Are most people just buying the 6D and purchasing the lay down tranny?
Yup they are. Check with your local hobby shop they may have an abundance of B6 kits and they may be able to make it the 6D kit for the price of the 6D and you can end up with all the other stuff in the regular 6 kit.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:55 AM   #3892
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Originally Posted by ChadB. View Post
Thanks Matt. I should have been a little more specific, but the surface would be indoor clay that is medium to high bite.

Are most people just buying the 6D and purchasing the lay down tranny?
That's what I did. I always preferred the flat arms / tower on my 5m and I don't really have the need for the gear diff that comes in the B6 yet. D comes with the Ball Diff.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:20 AM   #3893
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
That's what I did. I always preferred the flat arms / tower on my 5m and I don't really have the need for the gear diff that comes in the B6 yet. D comes with the Ball Diff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
Yup they are. Check with your local hobby shop they may have an abundance of B6 kits and they may be able to make it the 6D kit for the price of the 6D and you can end up with all the other stuff in the regular 6 kit.
Thanks for your help guys. I am a little out of the loop since it has been awhile since I have raced offroad. Any other special components needed for the 6D except the laydown tranny?
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:26 AM   #3894
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Thanks for your help guys. I am a little out of the loop since it has been awhile since I have raced offroad. Any other special components needed for the 6D except the laydown tranny?
The only thing I would recommend is the aluminum D mount. It allows a lot of tuning options vs the plastic one in the kit. The kit comes with all the inserts so you don't need those.

ASC91688 is the part number.
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Old 10-20-2016, 09:44 AM   #3895
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Originally Posted by SMcD View Post
All the eyelets do is move the relative position of the spring and shock collar on the shock body to maintain same ride height. The short eyelet allows more compression at the extreme.
Sean - the longer eyelets also make the shock longer, which can translate to more shock extension, which can impact weight transfer. So in terms of weight transfer a long eyeleted rear shock (compared to short) can result in more front/less rear traction on braking, impact the rear traction in turns, etc.
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:25 AM   #3896
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Originally Posted by ChadB. View Post
Thanks Matt. I should have been a little more specific, but the surface would be indoor clay that is medium to high bite.

Are most people just buying the 6D and purchasing the lay down tranny?
That is what I did. I also prefer the flat arms and ball diff. Plus the "D" comes with springs that are more condusive to dirt (softer). A bunch of locals run the gulwing arms in 17.5 here, but they are all just copying a team driver we have locally. most of them dont even know why they are running gulwings, lol
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:33 AM   #3897
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
Do the new style ballcups need to be squeezed like the old ones and are the new ones compatible with the 5 platform?
My servo link did, but all the others are perfect right out of the box. The threads really need chapstick or the front camber links won't go on far enough.
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Old 10-20-2016, 12:18 PM   #3898
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Has anyone tried to mount Kyosho rb6 shocks on their b6? The stroke is about the same, I'm wondering about the top and bottom mount holes?

TIA
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:23 PM   #3899
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Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Has anyone tried to mount Kyosho rb6 shocks on their b6? The stroke is about the same, I'm wondering about the top and bottom mount holes?

TIA
You plan to mount these on a B5 or B6? You asked in both threads.

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Old 10-20-2016, 04:16 PM   #3900
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Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
If you click on the wiki at the top of the page, there's a link to build tips. In it guys are taking that 2mm spacer out to get full throw. That would fix your problem without the dremeling. You already did it so it's no big deal now, but that's how several of us are getting full throw.
I just started my build this afternoon. My bellcrank ballstud is hitting the top plate when the steering rack moves to the left, and I don't even have the link ball cup on it yet. Do I have something assembled wrong?
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