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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-19-2016, 03:25 AM   #3871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balony View Post
Using the short eyelet on the front keeps the droop the same as a long eyelet on the rear due to the front is raised due to the anti squat that is built in to the rear mount.
Thanks, makes since now.
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Old 10-19-2016, 04:26 AM   #3872
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Originally Posted by TonyCooperUK View Post
I have a B5m thats fully tricked up, not really worth anything here in UK, I know that the schelle rear hubs will fit but I lose axle height adjustment

also looking at it I have ally rear wing mounts, but they would move the wing 10mm forwards,

is this likely to be an issue?

just trying to save parts from waste on the B5m and upgrade the B6 without spending a fortune again LOL
I'm pretty sure I read on Schelle's website that their rear hubs for b5 and B6d are the same part #. B6 however has a different hub part # from Schelle.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:46 AM   #3873
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anyone see the photo of Rivkin's B6 on JConcepts Facebook Page?

That front tower is thick as hell
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:48 AM   #3874
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
anyone see the photo of Rivkin's B6 on JConcepts Facebook Page?

That front tower is thick as hell
it looks normal to me.....
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:05 AM   #3875
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
it looks normal to me.....
Not to me
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:15 AM   #3876
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
Not to me
Looks like my stock one.
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:39 AM   #3877
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Looks like my stock one.
+1 for stock
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:06 AM   #3878
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sport10 and Balony, thanks!

I ran some practice laps yesterday. Basically, after practicing, I switched to the short eyelet. The dogbone pin is just so close to the end of the outdrive at full droop that in the right crash event, the bone may pop out causing DNF. I also suspect that the piston is better placed in the shock fluid column with the short eyelet at the front of the arm.

I am not super fast, but I love the way the car handles in this configuration. Just gobs and gobs of steering, carries so much corner speed, jumps flat
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:25 AM   #3879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMcD View Post
sport10 and Balony, thanks!

I ran some practice laps yesterday. Basically, after practicing, I switched to the short eyelet. The dogbone pin is just so close to the end of the outdrive at full droop that in the right crash event, the bone may pop out causing DNF. I also suspect that the piston is better placed in the shock fluid column with the short eyelet at the front of the arm.

I am not super fast, but I love the way the car handles in this configuration. Just gobs and gobs of steering, carries so much corner speed, jumps flat
Are you running the cva shims 91605?

Last edited by Silverstonev8; 10-19-2016 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Add part #
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:09 PM   #3880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverstonev8 View Post
Are you running the cva shims 91605?
No, but I can see how they may also help keep the bone in the outdrive. In the end, I followed Kody's recommendation and overall droop is reduced enough to keep things in check

EDIT: actually, I'm not sure this is true. the back end of my car is apart right now. I will take a real close look at things when I get it back together. thinking about it now without the car in front of me, I think the biggest effect is the tension on the shock spring as the eyelet "looses" length at the shaft/spring retainer (threads are showing now) and not the bottom. this will mean I have to change the shock collar setting to maintain ride height. uuuggghhh confusion...
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Last edited by SMcD; 10-19-2016 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 10-19-2016, 04:38 PM   #3881
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Sean you running laydown?
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:58 PM   #3882
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Yeah. After looking at Hunter`s buggy, I went all in.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:12 PM   #3883
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/10/rdrp-b6...hinge-pin-set/



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Old 10-19-2016, 11:38 PM   #3884
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Which car does most people use for both Mod and Stock? I am contemplating on getting a buggy to play with for the winter.
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Old 10-20-2016, 04:27 AM   #3885
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Do the new style ballcups need to be squeezed like the old ones and are the new ones compatible with the 5 platform?
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