R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Like Tree311Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-18-2016, 01:00 AM   #3841
Tech Elite
 
ray_munday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,617
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
My bump steer has 2mm on the spindle steering plate thing in the front hub. What effect does removing them have? and is it dramatic on steering? Thx all couldn't find this. My car pushes big time and only difference from Kit setup is are Yok green rear springs, Schelle steering plates, and 2mm shim on front hub steering plate
As you add shims you get more bump toe-out (ie the wheels steer out as they compress) and vice versa for less shims.

I have tested this (outdoors, med grip) and its quite sensitive. I found taking away 0.5mm (1.5mm total) shim added steering response mid corner and made it more settled on exit. Adding shims was the opposite. Im now running 1.5mm.

Note if you change front axle height you should adjust these shims to compensate as well.
Ray
__________________
Team Associated Factory Driver: B6/B6D, B64D, SC5M
JConcepts Factory Driver: Tyres, Rims, Wings, Bodies & Accessories
Reedy Factory Driver: Blackbox 510R ESC, Sonic 3 BL motors, Lipo
KO Propo EX-1 KIY_____www.keilorrc.com.au
Check out my help thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/10587838-post1.html
ray_munday is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 01:25 AM   #3842
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,837
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Thx - and I agree this is probably not the 1st thing I should try but am scratching my head wondering what is different than kit setup I driven almost identically from other buggies. Gone thru checking caster inserts, kickup, made sure the steering rack isn't reversed, etc.. will try this after reverting to kit steering blocks. I noticed on the spindle the schelle blocks were about 1mm longer (hole closer to servo) than the kit. Another buggy I have steering gets much more aggressive as you change steering blocks incrementally shorter (ballstud hole farther from servo) I wondering if perhaps this may be contributing

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
As you add shims you get more bump toe-out (ie the wheels steer out as they compress) and vice versa for less shims.

I have tested this (outdoors, med grip) and its quite sensitive. I found taking away 0.5mm (1.5mm total) shim added steering response mid corner and made it more settled on exit. Adding shims was the opposite. Im now running 1.5mm.

Note if you change front axle height you should adjust these shims to compensate as well.
Ray
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 06:56 AM   #3843
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 173
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Kashima fox shocks

What's the difference (other than color) in stock kit shock bodies from the Fox shocks? I have them on my CE B5m and don't really notice anything different. Trying to decide if I will get them for the B6d I'm currently building.
RookieRacer00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 07:05 AM   #3844
Tech Elite
 
SMcD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,048
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default Rear shock eyelet ? - yes, I know Kody's thing is on the wiki

I have gone laydown trans on dirt kit. Got the Trifecta wing and just don't want to cut/shape it around the rear rear mounted shocks, so flipped them to the front of the tower/arm.

Did one at a time (left one behind the tower and moved one to the front). Noticed no difference in the rear geometry from one side to the other under compression and droop. Why do we change the eyelets (I just left them the same for now until I get an answer)? I can see the difference if I make a large change in anti-squat, but that isn't the case for now... Thanks
__________________
We Shall See
The Track Raceway, RCRNV, JMR
Team Jacobs Racing
YouTube: looking for turtles entertainment
B6D, X-1 2016, T4 2014 VTA, SCX-10 II
SMcD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 07:07 AM   #3845
Eli
Tech Master
 
Eli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 1,443
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
What's the difference (other than color) in stock kit shock bodies from the Fox shocks? I have them on my CE B5m and don't really notice anything different. Trying to decide if I will get them for the B6d I'm currently building.
The fox shocks have theie kashima coating which is why they are the color they are. The kashima coating should yield a smoother shock action and last longer.
__________________
Eli Westrup - SDRC Raceway
Eli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 07:19 AM   #3846
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 482
Default

I'm running a 4600kv castle in my B6D, people have told me not to go to the 5700kv
just because the motor gets hotter and its not as reliable as the 4600kv.
Plus id have to run a cooling fan on the esc and I don't wanna deal with fans.
The track I race on is small anyway and I wouldn't be able to open up a 5700kv.
__________________
Associated B6 "Dirt Version" latemodel, Team Losi Racing 22T 2.0 Bomber Truck.
Team Losi Racing 22 2.0 2wd Short Course Truck,Duratrax 835e Brushless 8th scale Buggy,
Stock Slash, B4.1 latemodel(retired), T4.2 Factory Team BOMBER CAR
Castle Creations( Since April 2016)
bmag5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 07:58 AM   #3847
Tech Adept
 
5tone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: france
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
Run a Front wing to help add high speed steering, or get the Brass Front Bulkhead
Front wing is a good idea, not sure for the brass front bulkhead...
...but i have it so i will try at the next race (no carpet track for training)
5tone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 08:10 AM   #3848
Tech Adept
 
5tone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: france
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
That is the problem your tires are new. You will find they perform better as they scuff or wear in. To much traction and especially sidebite new. Also if running mod you will probably want to invest in the chassis weights too to move more weight forward.
You're totally true with the tires, treated used ones works way better
but I'm not really ease with traction compound...so i stay with my new ones

i have the chassis weights, i try the steel ones but maybe it's a little too much on this small technical track 'cause my laps doesn't get faster
maybe the alu. would be better in that situation (lighter)
5tone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 11:21 AM   #3849
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 173
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
The fox shocks have theie kashima coating which is why they are the color they are. The kashima coating should yield a smoother shock action and last longer.
Thanks!
RookieRacer00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 11:40 AM   #3850
Tech Fanatic
 
mellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 843
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Keep in mind..it's not something that's going to drop your lap times. You can buy longer regular b5m shock bodies for much cheaper if that's what you're looking to do.
__________________
"It'd be a lot cooler if you did."
mellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #3851
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,934
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mellow View Post
Keep in mind..it's not something that's going to drop your lap times. You can buy longer regular b5m shock bodies for much cheaper if that's what you're looking to do.
they are getting harder to find, as AE discontinued them
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #3852
Tech Regular
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 428
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mellow View Post
Keep in mind..it's not something that's going to drop your lap times. You can buy longer regular b5m shock bodies for much cheaper if that's what you're looking to do.
Where
Coke in a can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 11:54 AM   #3853
Tech Fanatic
 
mellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 843
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I bought a sealed pair on eBay for around $12. Tower had some in stock last time i checked too, but they will run you a bit more. I didn't want to have to buy matching kashima fronts, so I just went with the cheapest option to be able to run the tall tower. Obviously you don't have to buy matching fronts, but my ocd wouldn't allow mismatched shock bodies.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEBVH&P=7

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...91482&_sacat=0
__________________
"It'd be a lot cooler if you did."
mellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 12:22 PM   #3854
Tech Fanatic
 
sport10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 965
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
You're totally true with the tires, treated used ones works way better
but I'm not really ease with traction compound...so i stay with my new ones

i have the chassis weights, i try the steel ones but maybe it's a little too much on this small technical track 'cause my laps doesn't get faster
maybe the alu. would be better in that situation (lighter)
I was not talking about traction compound I was just saying the mini pins will lose some traction with use which is helpful.
sport10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 12:28 PM   #3855
Tech Fanatic
 
sport10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 965
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Has anyone tips setting a B6D up for carpet?
I dont wanna buy 2 cars so I focused on our "summer" car. But that season's over so I need to work on the car.
So far I ordered the laydown conversion. What about shock settings or may a setup sheet I can use?

Thanks!
(What about anti roll bars? Just rear? front and rear?)
Get gear diff and copy b6 setup close as possible. Tune from there.
sport10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (2 members and 1 guests)
JsK, millsj2
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:34 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net