R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Like Tree287Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-17-2016, 06:58 PM   #3826
Tech Fanatic
 
sport10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 964
Default

I forgot to ask if you are using expo in you transmitter. Using expo to soften the initial feel of the steering might help with having the feel of too much low speed steering. It will give more throw in the beginning of the range on the transmitter. Start with 30% expo and adjust from there. You with have to set it negative or positive depending on the manufacturer of your transmitter so look at your manual.
__________________
Hot Bodies VE8 w/ RX8-1900 combo
Losi XXX-SCT CRC conversion MMP/hacker 13.5
Associated B44
Associated B6
Durango DESC410V2 Pro
sport10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 08:06 PM   #3827
Tech Fanatic
 
tsair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 942
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Any of you guys have the steering linkage hit the upper brace at full right (bellcranks full left)? With a Savox 1257TG mounted all the way back (no spacers) and an AE aluminum horn (I don't think this matters), I can only get 95% EPA.



I notched it out a bit with a dremel and can now get full throw (limited only by caster blocks). Not sure if this is an issue with the Savox, an issue with the aluminum rack, or just normal...

__________________
Razor RC blog:
http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com
http://youtube.com/c/RazorRC
tsair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 08:15 PM   #3828
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 761
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

If you click on the wiki at the top of the page, there's a link to build tips. In it guys are taking that 2mm spacer out to get full throw. That would fix your problem without the dremeling. You already did it so it's no big deal now, but that's how several of us are getting full throw.
Chris Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 08:23 PM   #3829
Tech Fanatic
 
tsair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 942
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
If you click on the wiki at the top of the page, there's a link to build tips. In it guys are taking that 2mm spacer out to get full throw. That would fix your problem without the dremeling. You already did it so it's no big deal now, but that's how several of us are getting full throw.
Ah, OK thanks! I was thinking about this, and I had to lengthen the linkage one turn if the linkage is not perfectly straight up/down forward/back to get perfect 90 degree horn/bellcrank alignment, which I think then adds a little bit of mechanical expo.

Not a big deal, but maybe this helps other racers out there.
__________________
Razor RC blog:
http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com
http://youtube.com/c/RazorRC
tsair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 08:34 PM   #3830
JsK
Tech Master
 
JsK's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: S.Oregon
Posts: 1,526
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

With the aluminum rack and horn the weak link now becomes the servo. Seen plenty of
busted servos lately with the aluminium racks coming in vogue.

Personally i would rather replace a 2 dollar horn than a 30 dollar servo gear set.
JsK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 08:58 PM   #3831
Tech Fanatic
 
mourinho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 788
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
With the aluminum rack and horn the weak link now becomes the servo. Seen plenty of
busted servos lately with the aluminium racks coming in vogue.

Personally i would rather replace a 2 dollar horn than a 30 dollar servo gear set.
imo this is a complete non issue with a high quality 8th scale servo most people run, they are generally capable of taking much more abuse than a 1500 gram 2wd can deliver
mourinho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 09:27 PM   #3832
JsK
Tech Master
 
JsK's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: S.Oregon
Posts: 1,526
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Seen several 1258tg broken, a couple AE 1015, and several spectrum servos. All are 1/8
capable servos. 1/10 buggys with all aluminum steering deal out way more punishment to
the gearset in servos than anything i have seen in 8 years of nitro. We race on astro so the
speeds higher but the amount of servo failures latey is shocking.
JsK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 09:34 PM   #3833
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,763
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

My bump steer has 2mm on the spindle steering plate thing in the front hub. What effect does removing them have? and is it dramatic on steering? Thx all couldn't find this. My car pushes big time and only difference from Kit setup is are Yok green rear springs, Schelle steering plates, and 2mm shim on front hub steering plate
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
Makes the outer wheel turn more. Helps with the 180's
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 09:47 PM   #3834
Tech Fanatic
 
tsair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 942
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
My bump steer has 2mm on the spindle steering plate thing in the front hub. What effect does removing them have? and is it dramatic on steering? Thx all couldn't find this. My car pushes big time and only difference from Kit setup is are Yok green rear springs, Schelle steering plates, and 2mm shim on front hub steering plate
It affects how much the steering links pull in/push out the wheels (toe-in/toe-out) as the arms move up and down.

In general, you want the wheels to stay straight (no toe-in/toe-out) as the arms move up and down through the suspension travel. So that "bumps" do not "steer" the car as you run over them.
__________________
Razor RC blog:
http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com
http://youtube.com/c/RazorRC
tsair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 10:13 PM   #3835
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Olching, Germany
Posts: 341
Default

Has anyone tips setting a B6D up for carpet?
I dont wanna buy 2 cars so I focused on our "summer" car. But that season's over so I need to work on the car.
So far I ordered the laydown conversion. What about shock settings or may a setup sheet I can use?

Thanks!
(What about anti roll bars? Just rear? front and rear?)
man1ac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 10:16 PM   #3836
Tech Fanatic
 
mourinho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 788
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Seen several 1258tg broken, a couple AE 1015, and several spectrum servos. All are 1/8
capable servos. 1/10 buggys with all aluminum steering deal out way more punishment to
the gearset in servos than anything i have seen in 8 years of nitro. We race on astro so the
speeds higher but the amount of servo failures latey is shocking.
well yeah i did say "hi quality servo".. a 1258tg is a $59 servo that i would consider at the lower end of the quality spectrum.
i race on super high grip carpet and have never had a servo fail or even seen one of my buddies have a servo gearset fail, i have on the other hand seen plenty of plastic servo horns and racks fail in the cars of newer / inexperienced drivers, needless to say they all upgrade to aluminium..
mourinho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 10:22 PM   #3837
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 216
Default

why do people run a heavier C mount when theres enough room by it to just stick some weights in there for free?
__________________
RC10 B6
LC Racing truggy,
Tamiya lunchbox, Blackfoot 3
"where am I going, and why am I in this hand basket?"
Lunchie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 11:47 PM   #3838
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,763
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

So, more shims on the steering block would add more bump out on the tire under load? Ex: tight 180 turning right the left wheel (outer) would bump out decreasing turning radius? This is increased with more washers? Do I have this right and what are most running? Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
It affects how much the steering links pull in/push out the wheels (toe-in/toe-out) as the arms move up and down.

In general, you want the wheels to stay straight (no toe-in/toe-out) as the arms move up and down through the suspension travel. So that "bumps" do not "steer" the car as you run over them.
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 12:05 AM   #3839
Tech Fanatic
 
tsair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 942
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
So, more shims on the steering block would add more bump out on the tire under load? Ex: tight 180 turning right the left wheel (outer) would bump out decreasing turning radius? This is increased with more washers? Do I have this right and what are most running? Thx
I think you're going down the wrong path trying to solve your steering problem. These are not the steering fixes you are looking for.
__________________
Razor RC blog:
http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com
http://youtube.com/c/RazorRC
tsair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 12:42 AM   #3840
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 6
Default

well impressed with the B6, had my first race meeting with it, Im fairly new to buggies, meeting was first round of indoor, carpet track with wall ride and couple of jumps, all new to me LOL

theres a group of us that are always very very close on times on outdoors etc, in particular a mate that we usually within .1 second of each other per lap and average etc, end of 5 min qualifier, usually few seconds max between us depending on who had less ooops moments, they all running B6

round 1, first run, Im a lap up on them guys, and at least 1 second faster

by the end of the day I had a low 17 second best lap, with them in the mid 18s

what an amazing car, poor old B5m is going on Ebay and now unloved LOL
TonyCooperUK is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:15 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net