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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-16-2016, 01:26 AM   #3796
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Hey guys,

just got back to some rounds at our local track (loomy, dusty clay (depends on wet/dry)) and mostly the cars are B5R's. I compared my B6D (12g Brass C and 10g extra; 3,5 Toe In; 1.7 and 35/30 shocks (springs are green/green)) and although the B6D is a little bit faster (but I had way more packs with him) he doesnt feel that aggressive on steering. The car feels much smoother.

I kinda miss the initial steering and agressivness...anyone know what I mean?
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:26 AM   #3797
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Thanks for the info!

Btw, for whom it may concern, the lay down trans conversion listed on page one has the wrong part number.
*fixed
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:19 AM   #3798
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I have done a fair amount of testing at fastlane with stand up and laydown. The laydown has been better for me and the long shock bodies are the only way to go.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict that once Saturday racing starts and the watering and becomes less frequent, especially for the mains, that you may have a different opinion.

Stock or mod? The reason I ask is because mod tends to get the short end of the water stick where as stock gets a super tacky track.

Wayne
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:35 AM   #3799
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict that once Saturday racing starts and the watering and becomes less frequent, especially for the mains, that you may have a different opinion.

Stock or mod? The reason I ask is because mod tends to get the short end of the water stick where as stock gets a super tacky track.

Wayne
Stock and Mod the laydown just seems to work for me. I know what you mean with watering etc. However they have been keeping a lot of moisture on the track through the week and they have added leaf blower use to blow off the loose stuff. Last week was a new track which generally means no traction. On the new track the traction was as High as I have ever seen it. Wednesday they barely put down any water all night and the track stayed awesome. Get the dirt car buy the optional laydown transmission its on like 30.00.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:36 AM   #3800
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Care to elaborate on why?
I believe it smooths the car out. The extra oil capacity etc. make the shocks work better.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:11 PM   #3801
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Question for you folks...

Can you replace the ball diff with the gear diff on the B6d?.. and would that work whether you have the lay down trans or not?
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Old 10-16-2016, 02:09 PM   #3802
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Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
Stock and Mod the laydown just seems to work for me. I know what you mean with watering etc. However they have been keeping a lot of moisture on the track through the week and they have added leaf blower use to blow off the loose stuff. Last week was a new track which generally means no traction. On the new track the traction was as High as I have ever seen it. Wednesday they barely put down any water all night and the track stayed awesome. Get the dirt car buy the optional laydown transmission its on like 30.00.
Parks is running it, so I'll wait to see how well he does on a dry night and if I'm wrong I'm wrong and will pick it up for sure.
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Old 10-16-2016, 02:19 PM   #3803
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Question for you folks...

Can you replace the ball diff with the gear diff on the B6d?.. and would that work whether you have the lay down trans or not?
yes you can use it in either.
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Old 10-16-2016, 04:20 PM   #3804
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Originally Posted by crowbar1 View Post
I've noticed some of the factory drivers are putting a 1 mm shim between the front bulkhead and chassis. What effect does this have on the car, and why are they doing it?
where exactly are they putting the shim? above or below the chassis?

its common to put a shim between the chassis and the hinge pin holder to lower the roll center but I've never seen it above the chassis and below the bulkhead.
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:56 PM   #3805
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Hey guys,

just got back to some rounds at our local track (loomy, dusty clay (depends on wet/dry)) and mostly the cars are B5R's. I compared my B6D (12g Brass C and 10g extra; 3,5 Toe In; 1.7 and 35/30 shocks (springs are green/green)) and although the B6D is a little bit faster (but I had way more packs with him) he doesnt feel that aggressive on steering. The car feels much smoother.

I kinda miss the initial steering and agressivness...anyone know what I mean?
You could always use the 4 gear tranny that should add some steering and make it more aggressive.
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:13 PM   #3806
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I've been running both a B6 and B6D. So far I just set them up per the book. When the traction is high the B6 is the way to go. When it drops the B6D works much better especially when the temps drop. We're outdoors so the same track on a warm day is totally different on a cool evening.....even sugared. I understand why people like the laydown so much as it allows the car to turn much faster when there is ample traction but if you don't have at least solid medium traction or the track is inconsistent the stand up is much better in my opinion. I'm going to build another car soon and try out the tall tower and swap in a brass C mount. I think that'll be money for winter with a 4 gear.
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:11 PM   #3807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
You could always use the 4 gear tranny that should add some steering and make it more aggressive.
Thanks! Forgot to add: Already in place
Does the Alum Steering Upgrade help a lot? Thats what my B5R have/had (sold him yesterday kinda sad (first car ever))...
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:36 PM   #3808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Thanks! Forgot to add: Already in place
Does the Alum Steering Upgrade help a lot? Thats what my B5R have/had (sold him yesterday kinda sad (first car ever))...
I found that it removed a ton of slop in the steering. I had to go with an aluminum horn too though, the plastic horn becomes the weak link.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:04 AM   #3809
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I found that it removed a ton of slop in the steering. I had to go with an aluminum horn too though, the plastic horn becomes the weak link.
Thanks, but having no weak link makes the Servo the weak link :P Dont want that.
Have you noticed any change on the steering? Its kinda hard to describe what I mean but the B6D feels so damn smooth.

If I have to describe it: My B5R has tons of entry steering (which results in hard pushing if you are too fast) so I can break a little later. The effetice in-corner speed seems slower as the B6D.
The B6D has a lower entry corner speed but carries it way better through the whole corner. Compared for our tracks we're talking about 0,3-0,5s faster (in my hands).
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:29 AM   #3810
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Steering my B6D is overkill, the Savox Servo I have in it would probably work in a 1/8th electric or 4wd Short Course Truck.
I like it this way because you can never have enough steering unless its one of these servos. If you think its too much your radio can turn it down.
The radio I'm using is my Futaba 3PM FASST. Which they have the 3PMX out now which is the same radio with a different steering wheel and crawler functions.
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