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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-15-2016, 12:00 PM   #3781
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
I think either Avid or M2C make delrin bushings.
Thanks, but I only see B5 style on the Avid site - same for Schelle
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:00 PM   #3782
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Why is Cav using the 6mm rear wheel hex on his EOS setup? Is the car too wide with the inner hinge pins installed in the outer position?
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:22 PM   #3783
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Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
I'm following a setup sheet and for the rear hub spacing it says 'forward' does that mean the hub forward and shims to the back or shims to the front (forward).

I'm guessing it's hub forward, shims to the back..shorter wheel base. It's the Ray Munday NSW State sheet

Correct. Forward means spacers in the rear with the hubs to the front.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:38 PM   #3784
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Originally Posted by belewis01 View Post
Thanks, but I only see B5 style on the Avid site - same for Schelle
They work the same. You may need to space them out slightly for clearance. There was a guy on the fb page that cut the part of the stock bushing that the plastic slides over and slid on the schelle Delrin b5 style bushing....looked pretty good.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:45 PM   #3785
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thanks chris
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:14 PM   #3786
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building my transmission and the shaft that holds the spur has a lot of end float (1.5-2mm)...have people been shimming this out?
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:59 PM   #3787
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Make sure you put the topshaft in correctly with both bearings. I have very little endplay on my b6.
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Old 10-15-2016, 06:18 PM   #3788
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So, what is the general consensus on lay down vs stand up vs stand up 4 gear on various grip levels? I run on a track that *can* get loose, but generally I would say is medium grip--black moist top soil that is packed like a clay track and generally behaves like clay to some degree, but it can get dry and dusty and slick at times.

Also, what's the noise I hear about different rear shock towers. I thought there was only one and I haven't been able to find any info on this.

Wayne
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Old 10-15-2016, 06:35 PM   #3789
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
So, what is the general consensus on lay down vs stand up vs stand up 4 gear on various grip levels? I run on a track that *can* get loose, but generally I would say is medium grip--black moist top soil that is packed like a clay track and generally behaves like clay to some degree, but it can get dry and dusty and slick at times.

Also, what's the noise I hear about different rear shock towers. I thought there was only one and I haven't been able to find any info on this.

Wayne
Schelle makes a rear tower to run the 31mm shock bodies (B5) and the short eylets.... it's 1.2mm taller than stock is all and beefier.
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:28 PM   #3790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
So, what is the general consensus on lay down vs stand up vs stand up 4 gear on various grip levels? I run on a track that *can* get loose, but generally I would say is medium grip--black moist top soil that is packed like a clay track and generally behaves like clay to some degree, but it can get dry and dusty and slick at times.

Also, what's the noise I hear about different rear shock towers. I thought there was only one and I haven't been able to find any info on this.

Wayne
I would run 3 gear standup unless it's toward the higher bite end of the spectrum. The 4 gear is popular down under with low bite conditions.

As far as towers....ae offers a short tower (comes with the car / shorter rear shock bodies), they also offer a tall tower that uses the same rear shock bodies as the b5m. There are different eyelet lengths for the shocks....if you mount the shock on the back of the arm (std on standup trans) you use the long eyelets, if you mount them on the front of the arm (laydown car) you use the short eyelets....schelle offers an 'in-between' rear tower that uses short eyelets no matter which way you mount them.

The tall rear tower setup seems to be pretty popular so far. I could see the short tower/shocks more suited to higher bite carpet/Astro environments.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:16 PM   #3791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I would run 3 gear standup unless it's toward the higher bite end of the spectrum. The 4 gear is popular down under with low bite conditions.

As far as towers....ae offers a short tower (comes with the car / shorter rear shock bodies), they also offer a tall tower that uses the same rear shock bodies as the b5m. There are different eyelet lengths for the shocks....if you mount the shock on the back of the arm (std on standup trans) you use the long eyelets, if you mount them on the front of the arm (laydown car) you use the short eyelets....schelle offers an 'in-between' rear tower that uses short eyelets no matter which way you mount them.

The tall rear tower setup seems to be pretty popular so far. I could see the short tower/shocks more suited to higher bite carpet/Astro environments.
Thanks for the info!

Btw, for whom it may concern, the lay down trans conversion listed on page one has the wrong part number.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:35 PM   #3792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
So, what is the general consensus on lay down vs stand up vs stand up 4 gear on various grip levels? I run on a track that *can* get loose, but generally I would say is medium grip--black moist top soil that is packed like a clay track and generally behaves like clay to some degree, but it can get dry and dusty and slick at times.

Also, what's the noise I hear about different rear shock towers. I thought there was only one and I haven't been able to find any info on this.

Wayne
I have done a fair amount of testing at fastlane with stand up and laydown. The laydown has been better for me and the long shock bodies are the only way to go.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:44 PM   #3793
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I have done a fair amount of testing at fastlane with stand up and laydown. The laydown has been better for me and the long shock bodies are the only way to go.
Care to elaborate on why?
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:56 PM   #3794
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Have 2 race days on my used b6d Laydown. Trying to diagnose why it pushes more than others. Shocks in front kit settings kick up/caster is kit. Has 2mm shims on the steering arm as well. Only thing I have found is the servo does not have a 2mm shim on the servo horn and there is also no 1mm shim on the horizontal turnbuckle that connects them two. I am still getting full steering throw. Would the lack of shim on the servo horn or 1mm shim on the turnbuckle that connects to the horn have any effect even if I'm getting full throw? Thx much
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:06 AM   #3795
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Originally Posted by crowbar1 View Post
I've noticed some of the factory drivers are putting a 1 mm shim between the front bulkhead and chassis. What effect does this have on the car, and why are they doing it?
I saw the same, and would love to know why
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