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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-14-2016, 04:11 AM   #3766
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I have read and checked build videos of the B6 and it seems like it dosent need any lube on the gears so i skip that since i dont have any diff lube at home now.
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:39 AM   #3767
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If you don't want to use the black grease there, I think shock oil will be better than nothing on the transmission gears.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:18 AM   #3768
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Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
Ok so I got the lunsford motor screws for my laydown. The only thing is that the driver rubs against the side rail when I try to screw the bottom screw. Anyone else have this issue? I guess it's because the lunsford screws have a 2.5mm hex. And I guess the only fix is to dremmel down a bit of the side rail.
get one of these and you'll be able to adjust the screw at an angle

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-8209/p212265
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Old 10-14-2016, 03:22 PM   #3769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
Ok so I got the lunsford motor screws for my laydown. The only thing is that the driver rubs against the side rail when I try to screw the bottom screw. Anyone else have this issue? I guess it's because the lunsford screws have a 2.5mm hex. And I guess the only fix is to dremmel down a bit of the side rail.
Just dremel down the side rail, or buy a ball end driver. You'll have to do this regardless if you have lunsford screws or not.
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Old 10-14-2016, 06:52 PM   #3770
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Just dremel down the side rail, or buy a ball end driver. You'll have to do this regardless if you have lunsford screws or not.
It's frustrating to need special tools or modify original parts to get to motor screw.
Seems strange to me that AE didn't make a notch as part of the design.
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Old 10-14-2016, 07:08 PM   #3771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinebox View Post
It's frustrating to need special tools or modify original parts to get to motor screw.
Seems strange to me that AE didn't make a notch as part of the design.
Not really a special tool... More so a basic version...
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:36 PM   #3772
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Originally Posted by Silverstonev8 View Post
Not really a special tool... More so a basic version...

Surely you're not suggesting he use the wrench that comes IN THE KIT? That would be too simple of a solution.
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:42 AM   #3773
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Surely you're not suggesting he use the wrench that comes IN THE KIT? That would be too simple of a solution.
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Old 10-15-2016, 01:47 AM   #3774
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I've noticed some of the factory drivers are putting a 1 mm shim between the front bulkhead and chassis. What effect does this have on the car, and why are they doing it?
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:51 AM   #3776
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This is why AE buggies are awesome. So much aftermarket support.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:39 AM   #3777
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Anybody find a replacement for the upper shock bushings? Would like to find something tighter and longer lasting than the factory part.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:05 AM   #3778
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Originally Posted by belewis01 View Post
Anybody find a replacement for the upper shock bushings? Would like to find something tighter and longer lasting than the factory part.
I think either Avid or M2C make delrin bushings.
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:44 AM   #3779
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Originally Posted by belewis01 View Post
Anybody find a replacement for the upper shock bushings? Would like to find something tighter and longer lasting than the factory part.
Pretty sure Schelle does too
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:22 AM   #3780
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I'm following a setup sheet and for the rear hub spacing it says 'forward' does that mean the hub forward and shims to the back or shims to the front (forward).

I'm guessing it's hub forward, shims to the back..shorter wheel base. It's the Ray Munday NSW State sheet
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