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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-11-2016, 08:44 PM   #3736
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is there a t6 coming out
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:56 PM   #3737
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anyone know the weight difference with the kit plastic rear hubs vs. the aluminum hubs?
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:05 PM   #3738
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Default T6 released

Probably,
but I hope it will be after the 4wd.
XB4 17' will be released soon and I don't wanna come to the dark and expensive side
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:56 PM   #3739
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Am i missing something???.
The build manual says the front camber link shoild be adjusted down to 22ish mm yet the shoulders of the turnbuckles are 28mm long?
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:35 PM   #3740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
Am i missing something???.
The build manual says the front camber link shoild be adjusted down to 22ish mm yet the shoulders of the turnbuckles are 28mm long?

download the manual off the website, there were a couple McTypos on the paper copies
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:20 AM   #3741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
Am i missing something???.
The build manual says the front camber link shoild be adjusted down to 22ish mm yet the shoulders of the turnbuckles are 28mm long?
The ball cup is the limiting factor on how short the camber link can get not the threads on the turnbuckle, alot of cars are this same way.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:05 AM   #3742
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I am curious as well on the VRP pistons in particular the "Euro" style ones if anyone has run them.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:21 AM   #3743
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Has anyone used the titanium turnbuckles from their B5m on their B6? Any issues with them being too long?
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:53 AM   #3744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Has anyone used the titanium turnbuckles from their B5m on their B6? Any issues with them being too long?
The B5M buckles work fine on the B6. The B5M buckles are slightly longer and you'll have less thread showing when you install them on the B6
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:03 PM   #3745
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As a matter of fact some B5M parts fit the B6D. Some not all of course.
A racer let me borrow some B5M parts so I could finish racing the B6D for the night, of course I gave him his parts back when we got done racing.
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:57 PM   #3746
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I always put the diff screw head on the same side as the slipper nut so I remember what side it is on...

More focus on driving will result in less broken parts for the most part...

B6 with laydown is the new B5 with 3 gear...

Now I am all caught up...
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:01 PM   #3747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldiebert View Post
is there a t6 coming out
Yes.
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:10 PM   #3748
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Just finished a B6 Box art body
Attached Thumbnails
Official Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-b6-box-art-.jpg   Official Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-screen-shot-2016-10-12-6.58.08-pm.jpg  
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:31 PM   #3749
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Hey guys.. Just picked up a new B6 kit and started the build. I bought a Hitec HS-5565MH to run in the buggy. My local hobby shop recommended it. Anyways, what are the alternative aluminum servo horns out there that will fit?

I wanted to just buy the AE aluminum horn but they only come in 23 or 25t and hitec is 24t.

I tried to make the blue aluminum horn work that comes with the servo and its too tall and hard to space correctly.

Thanks!!
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:47 PM   #3750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom2tone View Post
Hey guys.. Just picked up a new B6 kit and started the build. I bought a Hitec HS-5565MH to run in the buggy. My local hobby shop recommended it. Anyways, what are the alternative aluminum servo horns out there that will fit?

I wanted to just buy the AE aluminum horn but they only come in 23 or 25t and hitec is 24t.

I tried to make the blue aluminum horn work that comes with the servo and its too tall and hard to space correctly.

Thanks!!
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...821-bk/p480542
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