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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-11-2016, 04:38 PM   #3721
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They are shouldered and have less slop between the screw and the inner bearing race. I ran these on my b5m.

er, the machined screws out of my b5m.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:07 PM   #3722
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Some real groundbreaking topics of discussion going on in this thread lately
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:07 PM   #3723
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Some real groundbreaking topics of discussion going on in this thread lately
the car is really good. not much to say.....
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:09 PM   #3724
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It's true. Coming from a B4.2, it's a world of difference.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:35 PM   #3725
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Has anyone tried the vrp pistons? Any reviews or thoughta?
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:48 PM   #3726
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50 people..? Are you making statistics up? There's many posts here and on the couple FB groups there's literally daily posts about it.

EDIT: Even a 1% failure rate for today is considered way too high.
So what is the failure rate, since you have all the answers? I doubt it's 1%, I was guesstimating high.

You pay to play. If you're going to race you're going to break stuff. Suck it up.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:14 PM   #3727
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You pay to play. If you're going to race you're going to break stuff. Suck it up.
I like this guy.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:57 PM   #3728
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So what is the failure rate, since you have all the answers? I doubt it's 1%, I was guesstimating high.

You pay to play. If you're going to race you're going to break stuff. Suck it up.
I have no idea, but apparently you seem to since you posted hard numbers?
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:04 PM   #3729
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If it was arms everyone would cry the arms are too weak. They want a top running, super light weight, indestructible car. AE would never make any money after the kit sold. Stop your whining and cough up the $20 for the part you broke on a nearly indestructible car that you can't even drive to its full potential.
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:24 PM   #3730
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I have no idea, but apparently you seem to since you posted hard numbers?
You should spend less time arguing on the internet and more time learning to drive. Good drivers have a 99% chance of not breaking shock towers. Read it on facebook, must be true.

In other news, I was building my T5M tonight and the shock tower on my B6 snapped in half and spontaneously combusted. Wasn't my fault, I swear. I'm starting a class action lawsuit against AE if anyone wants to join.
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:26 PM   #3731
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Carpet off-road not open until tomorrow. Plenty of time to argue
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:43 PM   #3732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobey457 View Post
So what is the failure rate, since you have all the answers? I doubt it's 1%, I was guesstimating high.

You pay to play. If you're going to race you're going to break stuff. Suck it up.
Eh that's a sigma level of 3.75... they could do better.. nah parts are always gonna break. If you slam a pole and a part breaks.. you can't really blame AE
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:59 PM   #3733
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Depends. No clue what type of CF they are using. Could be some garbage composite or could be 3k or 6k twill. Nothing actually posted.
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:59 PM   #3734
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Love my b6/b6d or whatever we want to call it. Laydown trans and flat arms for the win! Built it with this setup from the start and couldnt be happier!

Quite a few crashes on my first night with the car but seems to be holding up great. No broken towers for me but i am running schelle so we will see how long they hold up.
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:42 PM   #3735
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Enough with the towers already. Stfu to the whiners. Other buggies with carbon towers are frequently $399 not $299 and don't come in as lightweight as this. Go buy some 4mm aftermarket ones and have the stock as some backup parts.
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