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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-11-2016, 10:36 AM   #3706
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Originally Posted by shdwboxn View Post
the slim wheels are intended for the narrower carpet tires (https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcep...12960?v=507813). If you're on dirt, stick with the normal front wheels/tires (e.g. https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...85801?v=377179).
most of us currently buy the normal wide fronts and trim the inner lip off to make them narrow...what id like to know is the width of the slim wheel versis a cut down wide wheel...a cut down wheel is 15mm wide on the inner beads
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:44 PM   #3707
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I wonder what the difference is with the machined steering screws, my b5m screws seem to work perfect in my b6d.
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:45 PM   #3708
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A lighter wallet
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:07 PM   #3709
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:21 PM   #3710
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A lighter wallet
Actually it makes a much smoother more consistent surface for the steering bearings to mate with, as opposed to the crest of the threads of the normal screws. As well as a lighter wallet
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:22 PM   #3711
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
I wonder what the difference is with the machined steering screws, my b5m screws seem to work perfect in my b6d.
They are shouldered and have less slop between the screw and the inner bearing race. I ran these on my b5m.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:12 PM   #3712
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That's a tower / amain issue then, not ae. However as you know, either will work on either platform as long as you use the proper tower.
It doesn't matter if they are switchable with different towers, the fact is the B6 comes with gullwing. There is absolutely no reason it should be advertised as a B6D gullwing arm anywhere.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...at_front_arms/ <- these are for the B6D and can't be used on the B6 without the flat arm tower. The specification indicates that it can be used on the B6 without anything else needed.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...ng_front_arms/ this is actually labeled partially correct. This doesn't have the "D" designation whereas all resellers do. The site also indicates it's usable on both B6 and B6D which obviously isn't possible without the shock tower replacement here as well.

I almost bought the B6 "flat arms" thinking that's what I had because...labeled B6 and luckily I sent my cart to a friend who corrected it otherwise I would have ended up with spare arms I didn't want.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:43 PM   #3713
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Originally Posted by LVNeptune View Post
It doesn't matter if they are switchable with different towers, the fact is the B6 comes with gullwing. There is absolutely no reason it should be advertised as a B6D gullwing arm anywhere.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...at_front_arms/ <- these are for the B6D and can't be used on the B6 without the flat arm tower. The specification indicates that it can be used on the B6 without anything else needed.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...ng_front_arms/ this is actually labeled partially correct. This doesn't have the "D" designation whereas all resellers do. The site also indicates it's usable on both B6 and B6D which obviously isn't possible without the shock tower replacement here as well.

I almost bought the B6 "flat arms" thinking that's what I had because...labeled B6 and luckily I sent my cart to a friend who corrected it otherwise I would have ended up with spare arms I didn't want.
The car is a b6. The arms are for the b6 platform. Flat or gullwing, you order what you need. You can use whichever arms you want, and in theory you can use either tower. Just changes geometry in a way not designated by Ae
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:51 PM   #3714
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Let me change it up:

You have a Corolla LE and need new shocks. You buy shocks that are for the same model and they indicate they are for the LE & S and order it and receive it. You go to install it and find out the mounting holes don't match up and then later find out that it wasn't indicated anywhere that you had to buy a bracket kit to use it on the advertised model, wouldn't you be a bit peeved?

The point is, the B6 comes with gullwing, the B6D comes with flat. That's just how it is. There is no such thing as a B6D gullwing or a B6 flat. The B6D flat fits on a B6 with different tower, the B6 gullwing fits on the B6D with a different tower.

If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, and you call it a cow, it doesn't make it a cow. :P
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:56 PM   #3715
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That's not how ae markets it. They put it as both being "B6" arms. Did you own a B5m? Did you put rear motor arms on the rear of it?
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:04 PM   #3716
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somebody will get it either car to work with either arms.
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:06 PM   #3717
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A lot of fuss over nomenclature. It's the same car with a different set of initial included option parts. Geez. This was like week one type stuff.
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:16 PM   #3718
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Originally Posted by LVNeptune View Post
It really doesn't... Just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean there isn't a problem.
And, 50 people breaking towers out of 5k kits sold, doesn't make it a problem either.
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:19 PM   #3719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobey457 View Post
And, 50 people breaking towers out of 5k kits sold, doesn't make it a problem either.
What % of these 50 people are running on carpet? I'm wondering if this is a carpet vs. dirt thing, as my front tower is wearing a bit on dirt, but it's survived quite a few really bad crashes.
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:20 PM   #3720
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And, 50 people breaking towers out of 5k kits sold, doesn't make it a problem either.
50 people..? Are you making statistics up? There's many posts here and on the couple FB groups there's literally daily posts about it.

EDIT: Even a 1% failure rate for today is considered way too high.
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