649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-09-2016, 08:13 PM
#3661
So the race today was good. I finally broke a front shock tower. It snapped right at the inner hole. kA few weeks ago... I broke the rear shock tower when an SC truck decided to plow behind me during practice. Looks like I'm getting the aluminum shocks now as spares.
10-10-2016, 08:06 AM
#3663
Also noticed that the custom works you are competing with use an offset battery. You going to have a hard time competing with that on a oval. I remember using tc3 chassis with offset battery mod in late model and they were scalding fast on the hardpack oval we ran. Might have to upgrade to compete is all I am saying.
Last edited by sport10; 10-10-2016 at 08:20 AM.
10-10-2016, 08:35 AM
#3664
Tech Regular
If it doesn't work out for me and we get offroad back here(not getting my hopes up), i'll paint the body it came with and use it for offroad like it was intended.
I think your right and I'm wasting my time using an offroad car for oval racing.
But if a slim chance I do end up getting a few wins with this ill be happy.
I think your right and I'm wasting my time using an offroad car for oval racing.
But if a slim chance I do end up getting a few wins with this ill be happy.
10-10-2016, 09:48 AM
#3666
Tech Adept
10-10-2016, 11:23 AM
#3669
Just spray your carbon fiber with Flex Seal Clear! 
10-10-2016, 05:01 PM
#3673
Tech Adept
Really the main complaints with this are just the towers....Everything else is peachy. Mine snapped during practice with less than 2 hours on it on a less than spectacular crash =/
10-10-2016, 05:28 PM
#3675
I'm a crappy driver and have yet to break my shock towers.