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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-08-2016, 06:43 AM   #3631
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in general when the stock bulkhead breaks, are you guys blowing up the metal hingepin brace that for some reason (in comparison to my B4 days) is included with all the plastic bulkheads now?
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:06 AM   #3632
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When I broke the plastic pin brace, the metal support didnt bend/break. I was able to finish the race, but the car acted goofy.
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:33 AM   #3633
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thanks for the info!

Curious is this a big enough issue to look into say the aluminum bulkhead or just some one off kind of thing?
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Old 10-08-2016, 08:09 AM   #3634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Only difference I noticed is it feels more natural on the right as far as tightening
and loosening the screw, on the left requires me to use my left hand or turn the
car around(schumacher diffs go in both ways depending on the belt offset),
never seen them come loose from being on the left. If you a southpaw put it on
the left.
Schumacher diffs are different though and actually have a lock screw to lock the diff setting in place.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:48 AM   #3635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Since it's the new 'ball cup' topic...
B4 manual says screw head on the spur gear side.
b4.1/t4.1 manuals don't say which side to put the head of the diff screw.
SC10FT manual doesn't say which side...
SC10.2 manual says spur gear side...
Honestly I feel that the manual using the spur gear as a reference on which side to install the adjuster on is a disservice. The B5M, T5M and SC5M that all come with the 4 gear state to use one side where the B5ML says to use another. B6 uses the same thing. If you are building a T5M with a 3 gear you will install it incorrectly from the start. There is also no instructions with the 3 gear trans that it should be flipped. I have seen them be fine when installed reversed but I have also seen them loosen up.

I have always (20+ AE cars) put mine on the right side of the car, back from the days of my RC10T. Only variations on that are the front diffs on my B44.1 and SC10 4X4. (IIRC, that is going off memory)
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:24 PM   #3636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
Let's just throw this up there again for good measure...it does NOT matter. If you are wondering who kdub is...only one of the designers of the RC10B4 and owner/founder of Schelle Racing. That cars resume should speak wonders....
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:15 AM   #3637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
I have seen them be fine when installed reversed but I have also seen them loosen up.
incorrect. as stated a million and 1 times. doesnt matter its just a prefernce
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Old 10-09-2016, 06:11 AM   #3638
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It is just preference but it should be opposite the spur do to rotational direction. This would make it so there's no chance for it to loosen. A good on power ubrupt shock to the screw head in the right circumstances could loosen your thrust tension. But I haven't really seen a lot of issues like this in over 10 years
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:13 AM   #3639
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Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
incorrect. as stated a million and 1 times. doesnt matter its just a prefernce
How can you tell me what I have seen with my own eyes is incorrect? Considering that I work and am the RD at a hobby shop/racetrack that is dominated by AE vehicles.
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:48 AM   #3640
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/10/exotek-...pring-perches/

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Old 10-09-2016, 08:04 AM   #3641
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Default Diff Screw

I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Here are manuals from the last few models from AE:

B2:


B3:


B4.2:


B5:


B5M 3-gear:


B5M 4-gear:


B6D 3-gear:


RC10 Worlds:

Last edited by RCBuddha; 10-09-2016 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:14 AM   #3642
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Interesting that TLR has you installing the diff screw on the left side (driver's side)

22 3.0 3-gear:


Serpent MM (4-gear):

Last edited by RCBuddha; 10-09-2016 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:34 AM   #3643
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You show me a diff that loosened up in a car on the track and I'll show you a bad diff nut OR a driver that didn't tighten it enough to start with.
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:19 PM   #3644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
You show me a diff that loosened up in a car on the track and I'll show you a bad diff nut OR a driver that didn't tighten it enough to start with.
right, what these guys are experiencing is probably a guy put in a new diff and it loosened up due to break in. Funny to me people still talking on this topic. I like reading on here about new setups and ideas for the platform. Not rehashed stuff from years and years ago topics.

Anyways peace on the matter guys. Whatever way you think it goes in, your right. Just move on to another subject thats interesting about the car
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:10 PM   #3645
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^ Can I say I wasnt a fan of the B5m, so I waited for a car like this to come out.
Now since I have it I can say I don't regret my purchase, the build went together great.

After driving it, I felt it was a lighter weight car than my other cars, the Durango Dex 210 and B4.1.

Lets please talk about this car. Enough of this arguing and bickering over ball diffs.
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