649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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09-30-2016, 01:13 PM
#3515
Everything I've heard is that there isn't really a downside to running the longer tower and shock bodies on a dirt/clay track whether it be indoor or outdoor. I haven't tried it myself, but I just got the Schelle rear tower and have some 31mm shock bodies on the way.
09-30-2016, 01:36 PM
#3516
I want to buy the Schelle rear tower but I dont like that its 3.5mm (stock) thickness, and the most expensive 
. I think Im going Xfactory tall instead.
. I think Im going Xfactory tall instead.
09-30-2016, 08:02 PM
#3519
which vrp is considered the tall tower replacement? I think I'm seeing the option +2 but I think that changes the wing position and do you use the same springs with the long rear shock body and tower as you would with the stock parts?
thanks
thanks
10-01-2016, 05:07 AM
#3520
Tech Regular
It moves the wing mount up by 2mm as well to put the wing in cleaner air. You'll use the same springs on the longer shock bodies.
Last edited by boucher; 10-01-2016 at 11:38 AM.
10-01-2016, 07:37 AM
#3521
...
Last edited by ptracer13; 10-02-2016 at 09:10 AM.
10-01-2016, 12:04 PM
#3522
Need a honest opinion. looking to get a 2 wheel buggy. i can get a B5M or a B6. but want to know what is the difference in the B6 and the B6D will be running on Damp indoor clay. is the a a big difference in the B5M and any of the B6
10-01-2016, 12:24 PM
#3523
Tech Regular
iTrader: (34)
Not really.... Don't get me wrong they are different cars, but in the hands of a mortal either will be just as competitive.
I recently built a B6D for shits and giggles and it is a nice car, but i decided to stick with the 5.
The only downside to the 5 will be parts availability in the long term and if all the guys at your track are on the 6 their setups may not translate to the 5.
I recently built a B6D for shits and giggles and it is a nice car, but i decided to stick with the 5.
The only downside to the 5 will be parts availability in the long term and if all the guys at your track are on the 6 their setups may not translate to the 5.
10-01-2016, 12:29 PM
#3524
When using the 31mm shock body and tall tower, do you use the short or long eyelet?
10-01-2016, 12:34 PM
#3525
Tech Regular
To answer your question, the real difference between the B6 and B6d is the starting setup. They're the same car with interchangeable parts. The B6 is more of a high grip starting point (comes with laydown gearbox, gear differential, gullwing front arms/tower), while the B6d is more for medium to low grip (standup 3-gear transmission, ball differential, and flat front arms/tower). What a lot of people are doing is getting the B6d and getting the laydown transmission for it -$27.20 on AE's website. The B6/B6d is much more tunable and adaptable to different conditions and types of racing than the B5m was. Plus, since it's the newest model, you won't have to worry about parts not being available.