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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-27-2016, 03:02 PM   #3451
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Shorty only with laydown tranny even with the waterfall removed. No room for a square pack.
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Old 09-27-2016, 03:49 PM   #3452
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Can you buy the long rear shocks with all the pieces or do you just buy the longer rear shock bodies and pick up all the pieces seperate?

Thanks
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Old 09-27-2016, 03:54 PM   #3453
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All the pieces from your original shocks will fit inside. I just bought a pair of bodies myself ..
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:50 PM   #3454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
Need a little more info like what surface you are going to run on. B6 carpet and turf. B6D dirt and clay. No you do not have to have all the aluminum parts to run it in mod.
Carpet of course.if I was running dirt I would of have said the b6d.
Was more just curious if guys have ran the buggy out of the box on carpet.and is it beneficial to run a bunch of weight.
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Old 09-28-2016, 05:50 AM   #3455
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Morris

We run carpet at my club in UK; I run 7.5 mod in a B6. Big track, 30x18 metres; check www.Facebook.com/1066racing for an idea of track size

I'd get the rear alloy hanger to adjust anti squat/track/toe more, and probably the brass front bulkhead for a little more weight at the front.

I've just bought the chassis weights (steel) to try but the car was good without.

Last edited by andrewcoley; 09-28-2016 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:06 AM   #3456
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For all you Carpet/Turf guys...new tyre from Schumacher, half way between minispike (astroturf) and minipin (carpet) and designed with a lower profile carcass for less grip/traction roll, spikes in-between sizes for more life.

Mini Dart! Silver for wet astro, yellow for dry astro/carpet, blue for long life.

Looks good I think; will be getting some to test on our EOS carpet soon.

http://www.racing-cars.com/scp/news/...partno=news780

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Old 09-28-2016, 06:17 AM   #3457
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cant wait til they show up over here
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:37 AM   #3458
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I have one set of tires for this car glued to DE Racing dirt oval wheels for a B5m and they bolted right up to the B6D.
The tires I chose was proline electrons because that's the hot tire at the place ill be using the car at.

Also if your building this car pay attention to your shocks I built them wrong and had to redo all 4 shocks. Much better now.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:53 AM   #3459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LVNeptune View Post
If anyone cares, I just got the official response from Team Associated:

"The B6 and B6d uses the shorty pack as the primary. If you want to use either Saddle or Square packs, then you will need to remove/not use the battery strap #91731 and keep the batteries in by using a good brand of 2-side tape. Like 3M!"
A 4600 shorty in a stock 17.5 buggy can run 15 minutes at race pace. There is no benefit to running a square pack in a 2wd. Some have used the square as ballast in windy outdoor conditions, but it's rare.

A properly geared 17.5 should use around 1500 MAH in a race and a 10.5 should use around 2000 MAH in a 2wd. I run a 4600 shorty in my wheeler with a 10.5 and I can still get 10+ min in practice. It weighs over 200 grams more than the 2wd and has the drag of a front diff.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:35 AM   #3460
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I bought the B6D thinking if I bought it 6 months later they'll release the T6.
Its that or the SC6.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:24 AM   #3461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
I bought the B6D thinking if I bought it 6 months later they'll release the T6.
Its that or the SC6.
SC6 has been out for a couple of years now.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:30 AM   #3462
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The Kyosho one yes. They may call it the SC10X or something.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:32 AM   #3463
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Yeah, something. These number naming conventions were bound to cause this type of problem sooner or later.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:30 AM   #3464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
The Kyosho one yes. They may call it the SC10X or something.
"SC6E, 'cause it's S6XY!"
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:16 PM   #3465
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Shock towers breaking: to reiterate, near razor sharp edges cut carpet, dig into dirt and clay and will snap when your buggy comes to a dead stop. I have a horizontal crack in my tower from just such a crash.

Solution: Mildly take down the sharp edges with emery cloth, cover with a Lexan shock tower cover or shock tower protectors, use wide washers and/or countersunk washers for strain relief on the shock mounting hole. You can seal with CA if you like, but not needed once the edges are smooth.
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