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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

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Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

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Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

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B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

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How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-24-2016, 07:06 AM   #3391
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:16 AM   #3392
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People in my area are converting B5Ms to sprint cars to compete with Custom Works Sprints. Let me tell you they are having good luck with that.

I had an idea to convert a B6D to a latemodel. And I still wanted to use stick packs.
I was racing the B4.1 and getting killed so I thought it was my car because it was old.
I haven't raced this yet but I know it will be good. The latemodels ill be racing against are Custom Works Rockets and B5m converted latemodels.
My SC10 body mounts and mounting plastic brackets did fit this with a little modification. You have to dremel the brackets a little bit.
Rear body mount is screwed down to the Wing Mount and I Zip tied it just as a precaution measure.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:26 AM   #3393
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What bumper is that?

Asking for my kids....
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:31 AM   #3394
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Its an RPM bumper I took off my B4.1
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:36 AM   #3395
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Now if traction is good convert to laydown tranny and see if those custom works can keep up. Maybe slot the sides for a lengthwise full size battery.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:45 AM   #3396
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Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
Its an RPM bumper I took off my B4.1
Does that bumper bolt up fine or did you have to mod it?
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:47 AM   #3397
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Does that bumper bolt up fine or did you have to mod it?
Bolted right on. I was very surprised
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:51 AM   #3398
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I just ordered the B6D and I'm trying to find information on what upgrades to get.

what wings is everyone running? will any 1/10 scale wing fit?
I'm thinking about trying this one as I've heard the stock wings don't last.

also do you guys recommend the Ti-Nitride or chrome shock shafts?

so far the only things I have on a wish list is the longer rear tower and shock shafts, caster hat bushings, bulkhead shims, tapered pistons, brass c and d blocks but I'm not sure which ones yet

when doing the rear longer shock tower upgrade do i just use longer shock shafts or do i need the longer shock body too, seems obvious but I thought I saw setups with the longer tower/shafts with the stock shock bodies. This upgrade is for outdoor for the season remainder and then I'll switch back to stock rear shock setup for indoor.

thanks, can't wait to get this kit built
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:12 AM   #3399
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Any 1/10 wing will fit just have to trim it right. The proline TriFecta wing is twice a thick and works well. I would try the stock shocks first before upgrading. Only upgrade if necessary.
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:18 AM   #3400
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Any 1/10 wing will fit just have to trim it right. The proline TriFecta wing is twice a thick and works well. I would try the stock shocks first before upgrading. Only upgrade if necessary.
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:42 AM   #3401
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You want the longer shock body not the shaft. And yes it is a worthwhile upgrade especially outdoors if a bumpy track. Car lands much better.

Precut tlr 22 wing is nice!
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:54 AM   #3402
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i will definitely try it stock first but I want to know the options available for set ups and how to apply them to simplify things down the road...thanks, trifecta wing in the cart!

so stock rear shafts and 31mm shock bodies, with the long option tower, ya this will be for offload setup with big jumps
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Old 09-24-2016, 06:57 PM   #3403
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Anyone try this VRP front tower yet?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/vrp-ass...rp1241/p530924
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:14 PM   #3404
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ok i need a hand i got a nova slipper kit with 69 tooth gear for a stock motor 17.5 28 . what or how dose the spring to use or the the stock one that came off the b6 kit and what whaser to run under the slipper nut ?
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:32 PM   #3405
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Quote:
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Will they not let you fun a horizontal shorty battery.
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