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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-22-2016, 12:30 PM   #3361
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It may be your avatar...
Yeah, guess I need to change that. I'll sell the RB6 first.
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:54 PM   #3362
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Double Tap
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:29 PM   #3363
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Gold cup?
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:46 PM   #3364
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Gold cup?
I wish... NIS series though!
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:31 PM   #3365
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Has anyone used the Shapeway b6 Fan mount ?
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:34 PM   #3366
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the plastic horn it comes with is even worse.
Build the rest of the front end and then check again. Mine comes to full lock just 2mm from hitting.
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:54 PM   #3367
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Has anyone used the Shapeway b6 Fan mount ?
yes the 30mm works great fits under body takes about 8 days to get
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:07 PM   #3368
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yeah, that is better. Still hits with no spacer but I can go with 1mm instead of the 2mm on the spacer at the horn and that should clear it. Thx btw!
I posted about this same issue earlier in the thread, you have to use the servo spacers and no ball stud spacer with a 1257.

Else the bottom servo mount screws are too long and push the servo at an angle.

I'm running the exact same setup: Savox 1257tg, aluminum steering, kit plastic horn and it fits fine (with no ballstud spacer) as per manual.

Last edited by tsair; 09-22-2016 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:10 PM   #3369
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Anyone test the durability of the shapeway fan mount? Had one on my xb2. Snapped after 2 batteries (albeit without a fan on it)

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Has anyone used the Shapeway b6 Fan mount ?
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:34 PM   #3370
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/09/schelle...steering-rack/

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Old 09-22-2016, 11:04 PM   #3371
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has anyone seen the new a$$ brass from associated??
http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ..._mount_for_B6/
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:12 PM   #3372
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I have a B6D. I love it! Anyhow, i wanted to get some advice with my electronics. I run a Tekin RSX with a Reedy M3 6.5T motor. I have a 19T pinion and 81T spur. I recently put a WTF fan motor in the car using a shapeways waterfall mount (fits GREAT btw). The fan keeps the motor down below 110 running back to back packs, yeah!!! However, I believe that the WTF fan is drawing a large current away from the motor because I notice I have lost torque. It's especially noticeable after taking a sharp turn into a jump and I can't clear the jump. When I unplug the fan, I get power back and I can clear the jump. Anyhow, I would like to keep running the fan because it allows me to have ample track time without having to wait to let the motor cool down between batteries. I only get to the track about once a week, therefore track time is precious. My questions are can I remedy this loss of power by changing out my OEM capacitor that came with the RSX with a better one? If so, which capacitor would you recommend? Also, maybe I could get a different fan that does not draw as much power. Any fan recommendations? Thanks in advanced!!!
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:17 PM   #3373
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You could run the fan off the battery directly instead of off the receiver/ESC.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:07 AM   #3374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
You could run the fan off the battery directly instead of off the receiver/ESC.
how would you wire that? Solder the - and + wires from the fan to the pos and neg bullet connectors of your esc?
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:33 AM   #3375
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Quote:
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how would you wire that? Solder the - and + wires from the fan to the pos and neg bullet connectors of your esc?
correct
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