649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
09-21-2016, 08:54 PM
#3346
Top reason to run Ti screws..
1) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and can actually make the A main.
2) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and think you can benefit from Ti screws.
3) You're like most people and like shiny bling parts that don't make you faster but look cool.
Most people fall under #2 and #3. Those who fall under #1 are immortal, get them for FREE, and are likely PAID to run them.......
1) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and can actually make the A main.
2) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and think you can benefit from Ti screws.
3) You're like most people and like shiny bling parts that don't make you faster but look cool.
Most people fall under #2 and #3. Those who fall under #1 are immortal, get them for FREE, and are likely PAID to run them.......
Anyone else break the front axle screw?
09-22-2016, 09:09 AM
#3347
Do they make an through axle with clamp on hexes like they did with the b5 series.
09-22-2016, 10:54 AM
#3349
09-22-2016, 11:17 AM
#3351
put correct alum horn on it and itll be fine.
09-22-2016, 11:31 AM
#3353
Tech Regular
iTrader: (34)
Just finished the B6D kit and I gotta say AE put together a nice kit here... The manual is a bit screwey bit all in all it goes together really well.
And those ball links are spot on smooooooooth. Somebody at AE went to school on those and got an A+....
I am going to continue with my B5M lite as it only has one run, is dialed, and I have a bunch of parts for it.
And those ball links are spot on smooooooooth. Somebody at AE went to school on those and got an A+....
I am going to continue with my B5M lite as it only has one run, is dialed, and I have a bunch of parts for it.
Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 09-22-2016 at 11:32 AM. Reason: selling
09-22-2016, 11:36 AM
#3355
How far forward do you have the servo spaced? Have you tried installing the top plate? It may flex back to allow enough clearance. What servo is that? It 'looks' tall...maybe too tall?
You are referring to picture 2 where the bellcrank hits the horn right?
You are referring to picture 2 where the bellcrank hits the horn right?
