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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-21-2016, 12:14 PM   #3331
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First time trying the AE screws when I built my B6d. Never again. Complete trash.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:16 PM   #3332
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
The posting like a Pro part wasn't directed at you bud

Fact is, the B6 cars are light enough out of the box with standard electronics that most are under legal weight as it is. There's little to no need to run Ti screws for the sole purpose of saving a couple grams on the scale.
I know . The car is definitely lightweight. I add a good amount to mine. Racing outdoors my car weighs in about 1570g and gets better each time out.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:16 PM   #3333
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First time trying the AE screws when I built my B6d. Never again. Complete trash.
Same here. I guess they're "cheap" for a reason.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:23 PM   #3334
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I just ordered the protek ti set the other night..Schelles just came back in stock though, so I might go with a set of those and either sell/return the Proteks. The Schelles are shinier anyways.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:26 PM   #3335
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Quote:
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I had the associated and protek kits on some of my 5 series cars...price was decent but the quality could have been better. I am using the Schelle now and have had zero issues with them. I think we would all like to have Lunsford but I also like to eat and have a roof over me.
Hard to hammer on Lunsford, he gives us top quality stuff for sure. But you're right. Social Services isn't likely to be very understanding when I tell them my kids go to school without shoes because I had to buy screws for my R/C cars..
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:35 PM   #3336
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Hard to hammer on Lunsford, he gives us top quality stuff for sure. But you're right. Social Services isn't likely to be very understanding when I tell them my kids go to school without shoes because I had to buy screws for my R/C cars..
Nothing against Lunsford in any way. They definitely produce only the best....it's just that I don't need the best when pretty dang good will do the trick.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:37 PM   #3337
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Yeah there's no way I would pay $100 for some screws. Unless she was a real looker.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:43 PM   #3338
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Nothing against Lunsford in any way. They definitely produce only the best....it's just that I don't need the best when pretty dang good will do the trick.
Again I agree...How did we get hear anyway? Oh ya, my fault..
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Old 09-21-2016, 04:37 PM   #3339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
First time trying the AE screws when I built my B6d. Never again. Complete trash.
they're not that bad really. you have to build the car with the steel screws first to thread all the plastic and then replace with the titanium.

doing it that way i did not strip a single screw and the heads all look new.
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Old 09-21-2016, 05:56 PM   #3340
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Or just buy a tap and tap the plastic parts first. Been doing that for years. Takes a couple more minutes per part but everything lasts much longer.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:03 PM   #3341
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Quick question B6D what eyelet for front shock shaft... Short or Long?

Manual contradicts itself.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:07 PM   #3342
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Never mind quick goole search says short... Why were the long included B6 maybe?
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:19 PM   #3343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustinEich View Post
Never mind quick goole search says short... Why were the long included B6 maybe?
Long is for outside hole on front arm and when rear shock on rear of arm.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:21 PM   #3344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
Long is for outside hole on front arm and when rear shock on rear of arm.
Ahhh... Thanks
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:22 PM   #3345
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Brass D mount is in stock now:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...m_mount_d_12g/
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