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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-20-2016, 11:51 PM   #3316
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Originally Posted by Allen Drebi View Post
Try this. Very smooth reliable and faster. I have it in two of my cars and no issues

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...-160ss/p273487
Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:52 PM   #3317
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I have one. It developed the shakes.
Eek. That's no good.
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:03 AM   #3318
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Eek. That's no good.
my protek 130ss has been really solid for a few years. I would try the 160T if I were to get another one.
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:35 AM   #3319
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Originally Posted by M2126 View Post
Anyone know the weight difference from the regular stock body and the light weight version from team associated?
14 grams
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:40 AM   #3320
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Originally Posted by Allen Drebi View Post
Try this. Very smooth reliable and faster. I have it in two of my cars and no issues

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...-160ss/p273487
One of the best servo's I've used, I plan on picking more up for other projects
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:46 AM   #3321
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I'm not sure the laydown is your best bet for medium grip. I. myself, like the b6d better when there's not a lot of traction. Since that doesn't answer your question I'll tell you what others at our track have done. (1) you can swap to the flat arm front, run softer springs, and add droop or (2) one guy runs the B6 close to box stock but with white/white springs and that seems to work for him. I'm not sure what minor changes he made but he did something with the rear link height.
I do have the D, but was hoping to find a setup to make the laydown tranny work on medium grip. Goal being to carry as much corner speed as possible while still having enough grip. I know people are doing it, just wondered if anyone had come up with a setup that works well in this situation
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:13 AM   #3322
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If you're looking for more grip with the laydown tranny, try 3x1.4 pistons in the rear, mount the rear shocks on the back of the arm, and use the 25 gram c block. That should help out quite a bit.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:51 AM   #3323
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
I just measured this on Sunday, 3.2mm is correct for the b6d.
Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:18 AM   #3324
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Why do I see so many b6s and b6ds with titanium screws. Do they make that much of a difference?
Top reason to run Ti screws..

1) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and can actually make the A main.
2) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and think you can benefit from Ti screws.
3) You're like most people and like shiny bling parts that don't make you faster but look cool.

Most people fall under #2 and #3. Those who fall under #1 are immortal, get them for FREE, and are likely PAID to run them.......
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:41 AM   #3325
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I can verify that I have titanium screws on my car for reason number 3....and I got them at a great price.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:55 AM   #3326
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I can verify that I have titanium screws on my car for reason number 3....and I got them at a great price.


And there's nothing wrong with #3. It's a hobby, it's for fun, shinny stuff is cool, we all like cool shinny stuff.....But some will still claim to fall under #1 and post like a Pro......you ain't foolin' anyone Bro

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Old 09-21-2016, 11:59 AM   #3327
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It saves a little bit of weight....it also resists rusting if you race in high humidity environments....it looks cool.

Are they needed? No.
Will they make you faster? Doubtful.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:09 PM   #3328
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I think the rust resistance is the best part. What ti screw kit are most people going with? You've got ZZ racing at the lowest price point, then the next step up is FT Associated and Protek followed by Lunsford and Schelle.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:11 PM   #3329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
It saves a little bit of weight....it also resists rusting if you race in high humidity environments....it looks cool.

Are they needed? No.
Will they make you faster? Doubtful.
The posting like a Pro part wasn't directed at you bud

Fact is, the B6 cars are light enough out of the box with standard electronics that most are under legal weight as it is. There's little to no need to run Ti screws for the sole purpose of saving a couple grams on the scale.

If you run Mod and are looking at Ti screws..save the money and buy some tires.

Running Stock and looking at Ti screws..I would say the same, buy tires instead. But I could also rattle off a long list of other items to spend money on that would be better bang for the buck...

IMO
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:14 PM   #3330
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I had the associated and protek kits on some of my 5 series cars...price was decent but the quality could have been better. I am using the Schelle now and have had zero issues with them. I think we would all like to have Lunsford but I also like to eat and have a roof over me.
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