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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-20-2016, 05:35 AM   #3301
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Default Gull Arms v Flat Arms.

Guys,

Sure this has been covered, but cannot find it, but what does putting the gull arms v flat arms do to the car?

Thanks for pointers
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Old 09-20-2016, 06:03 AM   #3302
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It has, in the first post.

Gull-wing front arms with wider shock tower: lower CG and increased on-power steering

Flat front arms with narrower shock tower: more responsive steering and quicker release out of corner
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Old 09-20-2016, 06:14 AM   #3303
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Anyone know of a good laydown setup for medium grip indoor clay track?
Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2016, 06:20 AM   #3304
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First post..

here's one of a few sites to answer that question
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...tedRC10B6.html
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Old 09-20-2016, 06:27 PM   #3305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean B. View Post
Anyone know of a good laydown setup for medium grip indoor clay track?
Thanks!
I'm not sure the laydown is your best bet for medium grip. I. myself, like the b6d better when there's not a lot of traction. Since that doesn't answer your question I'll tell you what others at our track have done. (1) you can swap to the flat arm front, run softer springs, and add droop or (2) one guy runs the B6 close to box stock but with white/white springs and that seems to work for him. I'm not sure what minor changes he made but he did something with the rear link height.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:49 PM   #3306
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Anyone know the weight difference from the regular stock body and the light weight version from team associated?
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:02 PM   #3307
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I love reading all the updates every week. Keep it up guys.
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:15 PM   #3308
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Most people are running low profile servos in this car that I can see. I was thinking of trying the Xpert 3000 Series High Speed Low Pro servo in it. Has anyone tried this servo in the car?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xpert-3...i-3402/p448663
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:02 PM   #3309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Most people are running low profile servos in this car that I can see. I was thinking of trying the Xpert 3000 Series High Speed Low Pro servo in it. Has anyone tried this servo in the car?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xpert-3...i-3402/p448663
Try this. Very smooth reliable and faster. I have it in two of my cars and no issues

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-160ss-low-profile-super-speed-metal-gear-servo-high-voltage-metal-case-ptk-160ss/p273487
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:05 PM   #3310
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Why do I see so many b6s and b6ds with titanium screws. Do they make that much of a difference?
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:34 PM   #3311
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Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
Why do I see so many b6s and b6ds with titanium screws. Do they make that much of a difference?
I have them because they dont rust and are shiny, lol
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:34 PM   #3312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Most people are running low profile servos in this car that I can see. I was thinking of trying the Xpert 3000 Series High Speed Low Pro servo in it. Has anyone tried this servo in the car?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xpert-3...i-3402/p448663
I have one. It developed the shakes.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:22 PM   #3313
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Dumb question, but what size wrench do you need for the turnbuckles? I always thought they were 3.5mm, but are they actually 3.2mm (1/8")?
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:46 PM   #3314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericc View Post
Why do I see so many b6s and b6ds with titanium screws. Do they make that much of a difference?
depending on how hard core you are in racing your buggy.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:06 PM   #3315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Dumb question, but what size wrench do you need for the turnbuckles? I always thought they were 3.5mm, but are they actually 3.2mm (1/8")?
I just measured this on Sunday, 3.2mm is correct for the b6d.
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