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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-17-2016, 10:37 AM   #3286
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The tall rear shock tower and small/large eyelits depending on shock mounting location
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Old 09-17-2016, 11:34 AM   #3287
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What other parts do I need to run the b5m kashima shocks? Is it worthwhile doing this? I have some sitting around. Thx much
Check out Jason Snyders review in YouTube. He has the part nummer there for the shock tower that works on the kashima body.
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:56 PM   #3288
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Also check out schelle racing's rear tower for the longer shock bodies. Allows you to us the short eyelets instead of having to use the longer ones. Keeps the cg lower.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:33 AM   #3289
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i was looking at a set-sheet on website it mentioned using long rear tower and 31mm shock body, i was curious if i go this route, do i need a longer shock shaft?

is so, what part #?
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:02 PM   #3290
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no same shock shaft
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Old 09-18-2016, 06:39 PM   #3291
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Hi

I just got the b6d with laydown conversion kit. Track I run at is high traction clay, we use super soft m4 primes. I'm going to look through this thread a little more closely but plan on starting the build tomorrow. I'm going to go box set up for now and work on tweaking it as I play with it. What else is suggested... I've heard gullwing mount and gullwing front arms... B5M was run with flat at my track.. What's the difference there? What's the story with the front shaft tower... I've heard it's a little weak and there is another to go with? Thanks in advanced.
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:36 PM   #3292
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Anyone have any feedback on this fan mount?

http://www.shapeways.com/product/VQ7...431308&li=cart
Works awesome. The fan fits great under the body due to the counter sink. Worth it! I bought one without the counter sink and the top of the fan prevented the body to sit flush with the chassis.
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:49 PM   #3293
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The JC shock caps, upper and lower as well as collars work correct with the b6 shocks? They are the same as the b5 I believe...
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:11 PM   #3294
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Originally Posted by Ronisonce View Post
The JC shock caps, upper and lower as well as collars work correct with the b6 shocks? They are the same as the b5 I believe...
Yes.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:58 AM   #3295
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Lolol
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:59 AM   #3296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanks213x View Post
Hi

I just got the b6d with laydown conversion kit. Track I run at is high traction clay, we use super soft m4 primes. I'm going to look through this thread a little more closely but plan on starting the build tomorrow. I'm going to go box set up for now and work on tweaking it as I play with it. What else is suggested... I've heard gullwing mount and gullwing front arms... B5M was run with flat at my track.. What's the difference there? What's the story with the front shaft tower... I've heard it's a little weak and there is another to go with? Thanks in advanced.
Vision Racing (VRC) just came out with some cool aluminum ones 3 diff colors too.
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:38 PM   #3297
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what are the benefits of hard a-arms?
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:42 PM   #3298
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Default Long Towers

Is it recommended to use the long eyelets for all long towers/long shock bodies? I bought the diggity design long towers and was wondering what people were using. I realize schelle recommends the short eyelets for there long body towers.
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Old 09-19-2016, 04:50 PM   #3299
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If its a copy of the AE tower id just go off what Matt said a few pages back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
With the AE tower you build it exactly as you would with the short tower. Shock on the back = long eyelets. Shocks on the front = short eyelets.

The Schelle in between tower you would use short eyelets.
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what are the benefits of hard a-arms?
Less flex. Lighter wallet.
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:03 PM   #3300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanks213x View Post
Hi

I just got the b6d with laydown conversion kit. Track I run at is high traction clay, we use super soft m4 primes. I'm going to look through this thread a little more closely but plan on starting the build tomorrow. I'm going to go box set up for now and work on tweaking it as I play with it. What else is suggested... I've heard gullwing mount and gullwing front arms... B5M was run with flat at my track.. What's the difference there? What's the story with the front shaft tower... I've heard it's a little weak and there is another to go with? Thanks in advanced.
If you have the traction I would try and move the rear shocks to the front of the tower. If you go and listen to Jason Snyders review he really liked that change when using the laydown tranny. I myself have the b6 and that is the kit setup. Make sure to use the short eyelets if putting the rear shocks in front of the tower. Also on the build the shock bushings are black and the lower shock bushings are chrome. Do not make the mistake of putting them backwards as the manual is sketchy here. 31/69 is a good start for gearing with a 17.5 motor
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